Last Updated on May 3, 2024

Luxurious hotel with fabulous art and food

Arriving at The Leela Palace, New Delhi at 3 am, I did not expect to be met by a welcoming committee with a light ceremony (known as aarti) and a jasmine garland to honour us as guests. But then, my entire three-night stay at The Leela Palace was out of the ordinary and full of wonderful surprises. Pampered is the best word I can think of to describe my experience. It began when, after a long-haul flight – and feeling slightly apprehensive about dealing with Delhi for the first time – we were met in the arrivals hall by a representative of The Leela Palace who took our luggage and escorted us to the entrance where a chauffeur waited to whisk us off to the hotel in a luxury car. This felt like the softest landing. And so it continued.

First Impressions of the Leela Palace Hotel

Up in the room, we were offered a welcome ginger and honey tea while the check-in took place – a lovely personal touch. Then I had the chance to take in the spacious and beautifully decorated Premier Room. A marble-tiled hallway, lined with louvred cupboards led into the bedroom. Cream walls and cornicing, dark wooden, carved furniture was elegantly highlighted with touches of gold leaf and marquetry.  A king-sized bed had a beautiful wooden, carved frame that rose up the wall. On the side table, a pillow menu – the most comprehensive list I have ever read – had a tempting selection and included the first spelt or horsehair pillow I’ve encountered. An ornate mirror hung above a glass-covered writing desk on which perched a vase with bright pink blooms. Wooden side tables were decked with attractive glass lamps with cream shades. Each of the 254 rooms at The Leela Palace is decorated with original works from the hotel’s extensive art collection. On a sideboard, there were two glass cloches containing mini pastries and cookies that were refilled daily. Fresh fruit perched in an attractive marble bowl. A tea and coffee-making tray included an interesting variety of teas.

Opening off the hallway was a set of ornate, glass double doors into a marble-floored bathroom equipped with a powerful rain shower, a capacious bath and a double sink. White bathrobes and good quality slippers were provided along with toothbrush kits, combs and fragrant beauty products.

My Premier Room was very well-appointed and comfortable. If you would like your own private plunge pool and jacuzzi you may wish to upgrade to one of the hotel’s suites. A suite will also grant you complimentary access to the Royal Club lounge.

After the most comfortable sleep, we awoke mid-morning to begin our tour of Delhi with a driver supplied by The Leela Palace. Not only did the driver have a most comfortable vehicle, he was also a consummate raconteur, regaling us with stories about Delhi and the sights we had asked him to drive us to see. Tours with a driver can be arranged with the hotel concierge – we chose a tour of New Delhi which seemed a gentle way to ease into this enormous city. The Leela Palace is located in New Delhi which is known as Luyten’s Delhi since the architect was commissioned by the British to design this area of the city when the capital was moved from Calcutta in 1911. The new capital was inaugurated in 1931. Unlike Old Delhi’s tiny alleyways, New Delhi is laid out with wide boulevards, parks and gardens, much colonial architecture and monuments such as India Gate. It is also the area where the government buildings are located as well as many of the museums. The Leela Palace is located in the Diplomatic Enclave so there are many embassies in the neighbourhood.

Returning to the hotel in the late afternoon, we had time to explore our surroundings. The Leela Palace was built in the architectural style of Luyten’s Delhi and is an imposing building topped with golden domes, reminiscent of the Mughal architecture that once dominated Delhi. As one drives into the hotel two enormous stone elephants flank the entrance. Once inside, I found the communal spaces to be quite stunning. The entrance Lobby Lounge, with its superb marble floor, is an inviting area where guests can relax in comfort throughout the day. It is a double vaulted space with floor-to-ceiling glass and beautiful paintings and artefacts. It overlooks a central courtyard and garden dotted with site-specific artworks and sculptures and is beautifully planted with an exuberance of blousy blooms.

Indoors, the flower arrangements are as striking, the hotel boasts oversized floral displays on every available surface, including the lift lobbies on each floor. This magnificent display of flowers is replaced every few days, the flowers are donated to an NGO for upcycling – one of the products created is The Leela Palace signature incense sticks used throughout the hotel. The Leela Palace not only looks gorgeous, it smells luxurious too. Everywhere there are ornate mirrors and furniture with inlaid mother of pearl which is gloriously opulent in a way that is reflective of an Indian design aesthetic. It is a joy to walk around this grand hotel where the eye is constantly drawn to arrangements of flowers, sculpture, and furnishings.

The Art Collection

The Leela Palace artwork deserves special attention as it is both extensive and of museum quality. When The Leela Palace, New Delhi opened in 2011, the founder and his wife collected some 75 major modern and contemporary Indian artworks. Some of these works are monumental in scale, commissioned specially for the hotel. This includes a stunning series of 10 paintings of the lifecycle of the lotus by artist Satish Gupta which adorns a wall of the Lobby Lounge.

Outdoors in the garden are two monumental bronze panels by the same artist, called A Thousand Lotuses. This is a jaw-dropping copper, pewter and gold mosaic that fills two enormous walls in the garden, revealing the blossoming of a lotus from bud to flower.  

Gupta also designed the garden’s focal point, a stunning panch-dhatu (sacred five metals) Devi sculpture, cast in copper, where each evening at 6 pm, aarti (ceremony of light with fire, flowers and incense) is offered to the goddess. Other contemporary artists in the collection include Sanjay Bhattacharya, Laxma Goud and Paresh Maity.

The art collection also comprises a wide variety of smaller sculptures, paintings and prints and has encouraged the continuation of traditions such as the miniaturist paintings from Rajasthan and Bidri work (metal inlaid with silver) from Uttar Pradesh by buying these into the hotel’s collection. There are crafts made by craft communities that have a history dating back thousands of years. The furnishings – some with mother-of-pearl inlay – and fabrics also reflect the multitude of communities that comprise India today. Indian art has its traditional in the sacred and religious and much contemporary art continues this theme. One of the ways Indian artists sought to decolonise Indian art has been to look back to old traditions before secularism was introduced through colonialism. No matter where one is in the hotel, from the elegant spa to The Royal Club, the main lounge to the corridors, intriguing artworks abound.

I was most fortunate to have a private Art Walk tour of some of the highlights of this collection with the hotel’s art curator, Gautami Raju, whose knowledge and invigorating enthusiasm provided a wonderful introduction to Indian art. The hour-long tour was one of the highlights of my two-week trip to India. Guests can sign up for this tour, which concludes with a champagne high tea when staying at the hotel and I recommend it highly.  I do hope that the hotel commissions a book about the collection as I would love to have been able to take the images of this marvellous collection plus the fascinating stories about the artist’s home with me.

The Royal Club

The art tour ended in The Royal Club decorated with portraits of Maharajahs. The Club is a series of three interleading lounges that are exclusively for the use of hotel guests which creates a convivial in-house ambience. The sophisticated club atmosphere is enhanced with the use of large artworks, huge rugs on dark wooden floors, golden wallpaper, beautiful ceilings and chandeliers plus comfy sofas and armchairs. It was a most relaxing space to return to after a day of Delhi sightseeing. Unlike the constant hooting and dense traffic outside, here all was peaceful, the background sound of soft Indian instrumental music, the tinkle of a teaspoon and the soft chatter of conversation.  This space is open all day for those who prefer to eat breakfast away from the large breakfast area, to sit quietly with a book, tea and cake, soup and salads for lunch, afternoon tea, a drink and nibbles or an after-dinner nightcap with in-house chocolates. 

I had arrived as teatime was drawing to a close but still had time for a pot of masala chai and a few eats. Unlike the traditional three-tiered presentation tray, with which many guests of afternoon teas in the UK will be familiar, at The Royal Club the eats were displayed like jewellery in glass boxes on black plinths. Scones were miniature as were the pastries and the roast lamb sandwiches. It felt a bit like Alice in Wonderland and was a charming way to enjoy a selection of sweet goods. This being India, there was also a choice of spicy hot foods in silver chafing dishes. My favourite beverage in India is masala chai – an aromatic and spicy blend of ginger, black pepper, cardamom (and sometimes cinnamon) which is steeped in water and then brewed with tea leaves. Milk is then added and brought to the boil until the brew thickens. It is utterly addictive, and I drank endless cups on my trip. The masala chai at The Leela Palace was consistently excellent.  

As evening drew in, the teacups were cleared away and the elegantly dressed and very friendly staff brought bowls of nibbles to each table. Spicy crisps and the most moreish spicy nuts were irresistible. We were invited to help ourselves to a spread that had replaced the dainty chocolate tarts and red velvet cake in their glass cases. Now there was a range of savoury items which I sadly had to resist beyond a mere nibble as we were booked for dinner a mere two hours later. What I tasted was delicious – paneer cooked in spices and a plate of spiced broccoli, cauliflower and water chestnut all cut into tiny pieces.  Not drinking alcohol, we were unable to accept the tempting glass of Prosecco or any of a range of drinks on offer from the traditional drinks trolley. The enthusiastic, young sommelier personally presented us with mocktails – a fine virgin mojito and an alcohol-free Bloody Mary. Although I had been advised to avoid drinking ice in India, at The Leela Palace all the water used and presented is Aujasya, the hotel’s filtered brand and is perfectly safe to drink.

The Royal Club is well led by its manager who has an enthusiastic team who do everything to make guests feel welcome.

Dining at the Leela Palace

Five-star hotels in New Delhi boast a selection of restaurants which have the reputation of being some of the best in the city. The Leela Palace has a clutch of these and I was delighted to be able to eat my way through them during my stay. While a Japanese restaurant may sound unusual in a top Indian hotel, bear in mind that the hotel restaurants are destination eateries for Delhi residents as well as those staying at other hotels. As I love Japanese food and was recently in Japan, I was happy to be invited to try the fare at Megu. Unfortunately, I was not as hungry as I should have been – that afternoon tea at The Royal Lounge being the reason – but I managed to sample a few dishes and will simply have to return on my next visit. Once you have been a guest at The Leela Palace, you will be checking your diary for the next available opportunity to stay again.

Megu is beautifully designed, a sophisticated, minimal space that would fit right in to Tokyo. Black walls formed a stylish frame for a stunning centrepiece – a huge glass buddha (made of recycled camera lenses) above which hung a bonshō bell. Visitors to Japanese Buddhist temples will be familiar with these enormous bells and here, at Megu, the effect is creatively crafted using papier maché. The ambience is relaxed, and the service is excellent and attentive. The manager talks us through the menu which presents contemporary takes on Japanese cuisine as well as some classic dishes.  An impressive range of fish is sourced from Tokyo’s famous Tsukiji Market. We chose two cold appetisers – Shira Ae which is a traditional pressed tofu dish and a yellowtail carpaccio. Both were attractively plated especially the tofu which arrived designed like a beautiful flower before being mashed tableside. A sushi roll was served on ice in a small wooden box which makes Japanese food look so elegant.

Two hot appetisers included wasabi prawns with rice, and crispy fried asparagus. The prawns were lightly battered which kept the meat succulent and juicy and had a great kick of wasabi as the name suggests. The asparagus is a riff on a dish that is popular in Japan where a visit to an izakaya (a bar with food) will almost always have asparagus on offer with a beer. Here they were well presented in a special handmade stone sourced in Japan. We finished on a sweet note with an oozing chocolate fondant served with miso ice cream. It looked gorgeous in a small cast iron dish on an attractive stone board.

The Leela Palace has another well-regarded restaurant, Jamovar, which serves stellar Indian cuisine which I have reviewed separately.

All day dining is available at The Qube – literally a double storied glass cube which opens onto the garden. Here we enjoyed a huge array of breakfast foods, attractively set out buffet style. Those who prefer can choose Western breakfast options – cereals, fruit and yoghurt, sausages, bacon, tomatoes, hash browns, pancakes and the like. I filled my plate with a fabulous selection of Indian breakfast items which were absolutely delicious. A freshly made dosa was my favourite breakfast item each morning.

Not only is there a fresh juice bar, there is also a masala chai bar. One of the staff brews this wonderful tea and then comes around to the tables carrying his huge teapot and a wooden tray of ceramic beakers which is the traditional way of drinking this beverage. This added a lovely atmosphere to the breakfast. The Qube is a large space and even on a Sunday morning there was enough table space for everyone. Classical music played, couples and families tucked in cheerily to a great spread and we planned the day’s sightseeing. It is a lovely way to start the day in Delhi.

The staffing is excellent and there are plenty of chefs at their stations turning out masala omelettes, dosas (my favourite) and freshly cooked flatbreads at great speed so that there are no queues for food as one often encounters at hotel buffets. Staff are chatty, very keen to assist and work hard clearing tables quickly and enquiring if there is any way they can assist. Another cup of masala chai perhaps? Yes please! I certainly had no appetite for lunch after such a hearty breakfast.

The evenings at The Leela Palace drew to a close as contentedly as the days began. The Library Bar, an Indo-Victorian-themed bar, is yet another well-designed space, dark and atmospheric and lined with glassed-in bookshelves. On the cocktail tables are copies of novels in place of menus. I loved the concept as well as the environment.

A set of novels has each inspired a signature cocktail, the ingredients of which are mentioned in the books. Hence there is a Pablo Picasso based on Life with Picasso by Francoise Gilot or Around The World in Eighty Days from the book by Jules Verne. The creative bartender makes me a non-alcoholic negroni. An extensive list of spirits and cocktails can be enjoyed until 2 am (4 am on weekends). That’s plenty of time for a nightcap. You can eat from a long menu of small plates so you could happily spend the evening here having dinner and matching your literary and cocktails tastes. I can vouch for the fabulous nibbles that are presented at each table, especially the pepper lime, lemon grass and chilli cashews which are dangerously sweet and spicy and hit all the dopamine spots in the brain. This is a mellow spot to end the day in Delhi.

A further, renowned restaurant at The Leela Palace is Le Cirque – visitors to New York will be familiar with its reputation – sadly I did not have sufficient mealtimes to eat here too. However, it is a very popular destination restaurant serving Franco-Italian cuisine.

The Spa at Leela Palace

We were blissfully spoiled at The Leela Palace with an hour-long Swedish massage for two. We were each assigned a masseuse and after filling in a medical form and choosing our oils and level of massage intensity, the rejuvenation process began. I chose sandalwood (my favourite fragrance) with medium intensity while my husband emerged fragrant of rose and geranium. The masseuses were excellent and mine managed to untangle quite a few knots that had developed on the flight over to India. As we relaxed afterwards in the spa’s relaxation lounge, low lighting, comfy sofas and herbal tea in hand, we mused about how chilled we would be if we had such massage treatment weekly. We could have enjoyed further pampering in the sauna and steam room but time did not permit. The Spa makes the most of its internal space by displaying a marvellous selection of contemporary artworks, some of which we had been shown on our art tour the previous day. What a pleasure to sit amongst these extraordinary works that are themed around the female energies and desires, goddesses and a range of contemplative pieces that nourish the soul.

Those who wish to work out have access to an impressive fitness suite. There is yoga on offer as well as pool sessions, and a wide range of treatments that have developed using traditional Ayurvedic philosophy and techniques.

The rooftop pool

The Leela Palace is the only hotel in New Delhi with a rooftop pool. While the views over the city are not drop-dead gorgeous – that is no fault of the hotel – the space itself certainly is. Surrounded by cream cushioned chaises longues and matching patio umbrellas, a large, rectangular infinity pool is a good size for proper swimming and is heated so even in the late winter Delhi weather it was perfect for a dip. Gowns and slippers were provided by the very friendly pool staff who also laid out towels on cabanas that protected us from the breeze, and brought us a tray of bottled water, masala chai and cookies. The perfect way to warm up on a late winter afternoon.

Kites circled above while the late afternoon sun illuminated the golden domes on the rooftop, each containing a changing area and shower. The pool itself is open to the city views on two sides and enclosed by walls on the others. One of these is a wall garden which is green and eco-friendly. The other wall has an enormous, commissioned wall sculpture in gold that glistens in the sunlight and is very stylish and chic.

Summary

Any hotel requires great staff to make guests feel looked after and The Leela Palace has an outstanding team. Wherever one looks, whether at Reception or in the common spaces, the restaurants or the team welcoming guests at security outside (security is tight at top Delhi hotels with car boot checks and airport-style scanning), there is a plethora of staff. You never have to wait for service and it is always offered with great hospitality and kindness. We had a couple of issues with our onward journey with which we asked the Reception team to assist and they not only made several phone calls on our behalf to resolve other hotel bookings later in the trip, but they also remembered us the following days and enquired about how our trip was going. It is these sorts of details that make one feel welcomed and not just a faceless guest. Considering the size of The Leela Palace this is particularly impressive. A plumbing snag we encountered was dealt with within five minutes. I wish I had that sort of response at home.

The Leela Palace is undoubtedly one of the loveliest hotels which I have had the privilege to review. Guests are looked after with utmost care, the customer service is excellent throughout. The restaurants are very good and there is plenty of variety should you wish to eat in-house during your stay and not venture into Delhi at night. Sightseeing tours can be booked and I highly recommend the hotel drivers to safely escort you around town. From the rooftop pool to the serene spa, the garden, patios and the lounges, there are so many elegant spaces in which to relax. The rooms themselves are comfortable and there is a range of accommodation to choose from. It is a large hotel, but it does not feel impersonal.

The hotel is a visual feast from the outstanding art collection to the floral displays, beautiful lighting, mirrors and furniture. There is luxury at every turn. The Leela Palace is located in the Diplomatic Enclave of the city, all the embassies are located nearby. I felt that Delhi might be a challenging city to visit independently – it is vast, and sprawling, parts of it are gritty and it would be easy to get lost on a first foray. With the support of the team at The Leela Palace I felt completely relaxed from my arrival at the airport to my leaving the city a few days later. I left genuinely hoping to return for a further stay. I think you will too.

The Leela Palace, New Delhi

Africa Ave, Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakapuri, New Delhi, 110023, India