Last Updated on October 20, 2026

Island-hopping on a visit to the Isles of Scilly

The Isles of Scilly are a small archipelago situated in the Southwest, just off the coast of Cornwall from Land’s End. Of the many islands, the five largest, St Mary’s, Tresco, St Martin’s, St Agnes & Gogh and Bryher are inhabited. Other smaller, uninhabited islands are havens for many species of sea life.

If, like me, you haven’t visited the Isles of Scilly, you should. There is something unique about them; they are unspoilt, in stark comparison to parts of the Cornish mainland, with spectacular scenery and an abundance of sandy beaches.

Growing up in Cornwall, I had heard that the Isles of Scilly were somewhere I should visit. Everyone I spoke to was unanimous in praising them as a destination easily reachable from England. In fact, many visitors return to the Isles of Scilly annually for their holidays.

Getting to St Mary’s

My journey to St Mary’s was by helicopter from the Penzance Heliport with Penzance Helicopters. It was a quick journey, just over fifteen minutes of flying time. I was very excited about the experience, and it more than exceeded my expectations.

Having slowly ascended into the air, our route passed close to St Michael’s Mount; it was early morning with the sea gleaming below. In no time we had flown over Land’s End and across the sea to land in St Mary’s. I can’t think of a more stylish way to travel.

After a short transfer, I was at Tregarthen’s Hotel, my base for the next few days. I dropped my luggage at the hotel and headed off to the quay to start my island-hopping adventure.

Island-Hopping in the Isles of Scilly

The islands are close to each other and easily reached by boat. Travel between the islands is very efficient. St Mary’s Boatmen’s Association runs regular boats to and from the surrounding islands with outbound times in the morning and returns in the afternoon. The departure times are dependent on the tides, with the quays for the return trip sometimes changing according to the height of the sea. The timetable allows plenty of time to spend a day exploring a neighbouring island. Within minutes of a boat landing, people disappear into the surrounding landscape.

Tresco Island

Tresco is the second largest island in the Isles of Scilly, directly across the water from St Mary’s. It is famous for being home to the renowned Tresco Abbey Garden, with an astounding collection of thousands of subtropical plants from across the world flourishing in the moist, warm climate.

Tresco Abbey Garden

As a keen gardener, I was eagerly anticipating a walk around Tresco Abbey Garden. Tall hedges surround the garden, giving protection from the wind. The layout is terraced with long vistas stretching out in all directions. Plants and trees are packed into every space available; the design is superb.

Within Tresco Abbey Garden, you can see red squirrels; the island is free from grey squirrels, with a growing population of our native species since their reintroduction to Tresco in 2012 and 2013. The best time to see them is during feeding time.

Leaving the lush foliage of Tresco Abbey Garden, the change is dramatic, with heathland dominating the landscape. Walk along the coastline towards New Grimsby Quay, then head inland, and a short walk will bring you to Ruin Beach.

Ruin Beach Café

Ruin Beach café is a perfect spot to stop for a delicious bite to eat. Situated right on the edge of a gorgeous sandy beach, the food is excellent and the view unparalleled.

From the menu of enticing dishes, I chose crab brioche with fennel, a tasty bite of fresh white crab meat atop a soft brioche bun. It was just what I needed after my walk across the island. I couldn’t resist following it with a chocolate pot, a warm, delicious chocolate sponge with a creamy hazelnut ice cream. I could have stayed at the Ruin Beach Café all day. Given my early start, I wended my way back to catch the return boat to St Mary’s.

Tregarthen’s Hotel

I was a guest at Tregarthen’s Hotel located a stroll away from St Mary’s Quay and the main street in Hugh Town with its shops and galleries. The location couldn’t get any better than this. 

The hotel staff were friendly, welcoming, and gave me all the information for my stay. I was happy to have a deluxe room with a sea view on the top floor. The spacious airy room had everything I needed to make my visit memorable.

A large bed, sofa, fridge with fresh milk, and Cornish water. Tea and coffee facilities were provided along with several packets of tasty cookies. The bathroom was clean and modern, with a bath perfect for soaking after an active day and an overhead shower.

Large windows looked out over the sea, ideal for taking in the stunning coastal view.

A delightful terrace with comfy seating has amazing views over the sea. A great spot to relax with a pre-dinner aperitif.

I dined at the spacious restaurant in Tregarthen’s Hotel. My starter was a delicious dish of scallops in garlic and lemon butter with a generous chunk of homemade focaccia to soak up the heavenly juices.

The bed was very comfortable. I woke up refreshed and ready to explore St Mary’s on foot.

Exploring St Mary’s

St Mary’s is the largest of the islands in the Isles of Scilly, with plenty to see and do. Follow the coast path through the town and along the side of the beach with its boats bobbing in the water. After twenty-five minutes of walking, stop for a coffee at Juliet’s garden.

The outside terrace boasts great views looking out over the sea. Venturing further around the coastline, make your way to Bar Point where you will be rewarded with a fantastic view towards the islands of Tresco and St Martin’s.

Heading inland, my lunch stop was Longstone Cafe, perfect for a bite to eat and a drink. I couldn’t resist having a crab sandwich; I am a big fan of fresh crab meat. Already warned that the cakes at Longstone Café were a must, I finished with a large piece of homemade Bakewell cake. I was not disappointed.

Holyvale Vineyard

It was surprising to find a vineyard on an island off the coast of Cornwall. After a few tough years with wind damage and foraging birds, the vines displayed small bunches of grapes and promise for a harvest this year. I visited the Silver Carn vineyard, with high hedging protecting the vines from the prevailing winds. Newly installed netting keeps the vines safe from marauding birds. 

I sampled the Silver Carn 2019 white wine, a combination of chardonnay & pinot gris grapes, an ideal match for lobster.

A walk on Garrison Hill

On my return to Hugh Town, I ventured uphill from Tregarthen’s Hotel to Star Castle to admire the vista before a stroll along Garrison Hill. The walk encircles the castle; batteries are strategically located at intervals around the circumference. You can see in every direction, including as far as the island of St Agnes, the most south-westerly island in the Isles of Scilly.

I dined in the Tregarthen’s Hotel restaurant. Plump Cornish mussels in a creamy leek and bacon sauce with sea salt and black pepper fries.

A glass of chenin blanc was the perfect accompaniment for my meal. For pudding, a light lemon posset dessert, topped with limoncello syrup and a clotted cream shortbread.

St Agnes

On my last full day in the Isles of Scilly, I visited the Island of St Agnes. This is a smaller island, with a slightly longer journey by boat. St Agnes is possibly my favourite island. You can easily explore the island in half a day. The tall lighthouse stands in the middle of the island.

Troytown Farm

A visit to Troytown Farm is highly recommended. The campsite below the farm has magnificent panoramic views out as far as the impressive granite lighthouse, Bishop Rock, the most south-westerly point in Great Britain. 

Troytown Farm makes a range of divine ice cream, sold throughout the Isles of Scilly. You can see the eight cows from the farm contentedly grazing in the field. I had to sample some ice cream, traditional vanilla of course. The ice cream was excellent, rich and creamy – a real treat.

The coastguard lookout is a tranquil spot to stop for a drink and a bite to eat. As the name suggests, it looks out over the sea.

The small island of Gogh, inhabited by one family, is connected to the east side of St Agnes. It is only accessible at low tide when the sandbar is above water.

The Bishop and wolf

Back in St Mary’s, I dined at the recently refurbished Bishop & Wolf, a St Austell Brewery pub, a welcoming, lively place to eat and drink in the heart of Hugh Town. 

Determined to make the most of the availability of fresh seafood, I opted for the locally caught grilled crawfish with garlic butter, samphire, lemon mayonnaise and fries. It was a hearty dish. A glass of chilled rosé from Provence was a great match. For dessert, I opted for a pub classic, sticky toffee pudding with ice cream. It was delicious, gooey and very filling.

Phoenix Craft Studios

With a few hours to spare on my last day, I decided to explore more of St Mary’s. A short walk along the promenade took me to Phoenix Craft Studios, where local artists make and display their works. The handmade glass objects were gorgeous; I would have bought something for sure if I wasn’t concerned about it getting damaged.

Dibble & Grub

This vibrant and fun eatery is great for a coffee or a small plate, in a location set back from Porthcressa Beach. It was too early for lunch, and I was feeling full after eating a lot of seafood. A coffee was just what was needed. The friendly staff and warm atmosphere were perfect for my last experience of the Isles of Scilly.

It was time to collect my bags from Tregarthen’s Hotel and say goodbye to the friendly team and thank them for an enjoyable stay. My transfer to St Mary’s Airport arrived in minutes, and I was soon at the heliport. The thrill of another helicopter ride awaited me.

There is something special about the Isles of Scilly. I have vowed to return. Beautiful scenery, delicious fresh seafood, empty beaches and friendly people make this a superb destination. Why fly thousands of miles around the world when these spectacular islands are on our doorstep? 

Travelling to the Isles of Scilly

I drove to Penzance as I was already in Cornwall. From Penzance, a helicopter flight is a memorable and speedy way to travel. 

The Skybus plane links the Isles of Scilly with Land’s End, Newquay or Exeter airports. Alternatively, the Scillonian Ferry runs from Penzance to St Mary’s with a journey time of around three hours.

Check out our feature on the sleeper train from London to Penzance if you do not wish to drive.

I was a guest at Tregarthen’s Hotel with bed & breakfast in a deluxe sea view room with dinner on two evenings. In addition to well-appointed rooms, Tregarthen’s Hotel offers self-catering cottages, as well as lodges with delightful sea views.

Factbox

I was gifted my flights from Penzance Helicopters.

I was hosted by Visit Isles of Scilly with entrance to Tresco Abbey Garden and boat tickets for my trips to St Agnes & Tresco. Check their site for useful information on the Isles of Scilly.

For more details on Tresco Abbey Garden and opening times.

Click here to find out more about Ruin Beach Café.

Longstone Cafe is situated in the middle of St Mary’s.  

For more information on Troytown Farm

For details on the Coastguards Lookout Café.

Check out more on The Bishop & Wolf pub.

For opening times and more information, see Dibble & Grub.