Last Updated on May 3, 2024
Top Indian Cuisine in Delhi
One of the treats of staying in five-star hotels in India is that they have a clutch of restaurants that are considered to be amongst the best eateries in the city. During a recent stay at The Leela Palace, New Delhi, I was invited to review their Indian fine dining restaurant, Jamavar, which specialises in both northern and southern Indian cuisine. In keeping with the rest of the hotel, which is grand and luxurious with magnificent furniture, artwork and floral arrangements, I found that Jamavar provided the same opulent ambience. The name derives from the famous 16th-century Jamavar shawls of Kashmir that have intricate paisley motifs which form part of the décor in the restaurant.
Situated on the ground floor of The Leela Palace Hotel which boasts a double vaulted ceiling, the restaurant shares this lofty height such that the entrance to Jamavar is an enormous set of gold doors, akin to entering an ancient temple. On venturing inside we waited briefly for our table inside a private dining room which was surrounded by sheer floor-to-ceiling drapes and had a spectacular chandelier hanging above the large round table. This space is known as the Maharaja table – it seats eight – and would make a wonderful space to meet with a group or to entertain. Here we had time to appreciate the beautiful table settings – French crockery with the Jamavar paisley design, customised cutlery, and crystal glassware. The staff at Jamavar were elegantly dressed in shades of gold and grey, with embroidered jackets or waistcoats. Indian instrumental music added to the atmosphere in this elegant and beautifully designed space.
We perused what we were advised is the best wine list in Delhi and it certainly had an extensive selection of international wines. My husband tried an Indian wine for the first time. Fratelli Chenin Blanc is India’s most internationally awarded wine and its bouquet of fresh tropical fruit and smooth flavour paired very well with the spicy dishes that lay ahead.
Since I am alcohol-free, I chose to try a drink that was new to me – masala chaas is an iced buttermilk spiced with freshly broiled cumin, ginger and coriander. It was refreshing and a gently spicy way to ease into the evening. Alongside we were served papadums which were creatively served in silver goblets, long shards rather than the conventional pancake shape. We enjoyed these with an amuse bouche of Mulligatawny soup which is the national soup of India. I tried the vegetarian version and my husband had one with chicken. This spiced lentil soup was attractively presented in a copper pot and was lovely and thick, hearty and well-spiced.
Moving into the main restaurant area we found enormous, oversized chandeliers that took centre stage along with a silver and gold artwork with the paisley design on the wall. The walls were decorated with embossed brown paper with a plant motif. Brown leather banquettes rose high up above our heads. The wall mirrors were two stories high. All this space gives Jamavar a feeling of light despite it being an internal, windowless room.
The restaurant manager was a consummate host and he seamlessly guided us through the evening suggesting what we might like to try off the menu, wine pairing, information about the cuisine, spicing, and the history of the dishes. The sous chef came out to present some of his dishes, all of which were beautifully presented.
The menu is so full of tempting dishes that several visits to Jamavar are needed to do it justice. As the chef was keen for us to try a number of signature dishes, we ended up eating far more than we intended and if I was at home I would definitely have requested to take the leftovers for this was undoubtedly one of the best Indian meals I have ever eaten.
Outstanding presentation continued with the starter dishes. One of my favourites was Hara Bhara Kebab – spinach patties with fennel, lentil, mango and cucumber seeds. The patties had a deep-green hue and looked very pretty on a beetroot tuille and topped with a dainty hat. The patties were light, with complex spicing – an all-round excellent vegetarian starter. I had resolved to eat exclusively vegetarian food while in India but my good intentions crumbled at Jamavar. My husband was served two starter dishes – chicken and lamb – which looked so enticing that I simply could not resist. Murgh Malai Kebab – cardamon-flavoured chicken marinated with cream and cheese – was very tender and tasty. Raan-e-Jamavar was brilliant. A lamb shank, marinated and baked in a tandoor, was aromatically spiced and as tender as can be imagined, I only wish we could have finished the whole dish. However, we held back as there was a long way still to go. Portions are very generous at Jamavar and any of these starters would have been sufficient for a main course.
We tried four further dishes. Jhinga Lazeez was a dish of prawns simmered with royal spices and tomato. The prawns were sweet and succulent and the sauce, a medley of flavours, was pretty spicy. I was presented with a set curd to cool it down.
Gosht Ki Nihari was an Awadhi lamb delicacy lightly flavoured with saffron. The tender lamb was cooked on the bone in a creamy, rust-coloured sauce which was gently spiced.
Daal Jamavar was simply brilliant. Known elsewhere as dal makhani, this is the king of daal dishes in India and was beautifully prepared at Jamavar. The black lentil is given a Rolls Royce treatment – simmered very slowly in cream and tomatoes until it is buttery, creamy and utterly addictive. It is the most soothing and nourishing dish.
Nizami Tarkari Biryani was another dish I would like to have been able to finish. Presented in a copper pot, aromatic basmati rice cooked on dum was served with garden-fresh vegetables. Cooking on dum essentially means slow cooking a dish in a sealed container to retain as much fragrance and flavour as possible. We tore off chunks of Bharwan Kulcha, a flatbread filled with potato, cauliflower, and paneer. It was freshly baked and deliciously moist.
Dessert was a trio of Indian favourites – each colourful and inviting – and the perfect end to a large meal. Sticks of homemade kesar and pista kulfi were decorated with slivered almonds and pistachios. Kulfi, which dates back to the 16th century Mughal Empire, is similar to ice cream but is denser since it is not whipped. The name derives from the Persian for covered cup, the cylindrical mould traditionally used to set the kulfi. It is my favourite Indian dessert, and these were not overly sweet and contrasted well with the nuts.
Gulab Jamun was a hot, sweet, softly yielding sugar hit of loveliness. Milk solids are kneaded with flour and small balls of the dough are deep fried and doused in cardamom-flavoured syrup and rose water. This is a dessert we were served throughout our trip to India but this was my favourite and the lightest version.
Ras Malai is another ubiquitous dessert in India, made with milk solids and flour, the balls cooked in hot water with rose water added. This was creamy (malai means cream) and redolent with rose water. It was a burst of sunshine yellow which comes from cooking the balls in saffron.
Our dinner at Jamavar was the culinary highlight of my trip to Delhi. We ate like royalty and received superb service throughout. Each dish was beautifully presented, expertly cooked and presented tableside, silver-service style. My only concern was that, having eaten so well at the beginning of my trip, how would anything else compare? On a two-week trip to India, I ate several excellent meals but it is dinner at Jamavar that stands out. Jamavar is the signature fine-dining restaurant of The Leela. Three other branches of Jamavar are located in The Leela hotels in Mumbai, Chennai and Bengaluru. One consolation of being back home in the UK is that there is a Michelin-starred Jamavar in Mayfair. I will be booking a table very soon.
Jamavar at The Leela Palace,
New Delhi
Africa Ave,
Diplomatic Enclave,
Chanakapuri,
New Delhi, 110023
India
