Last Updated on April 1, 2024

Town or Country – there’s plenty to keep you busy in Calais

I grew up travelling regularly to mainland Europe by car. My adventures pre-date package holidays and my parents, with three children in tow, opted to camp rather than pay for hotel rooms for all of us.  So, travelling by car, often with a trailer, was the easy way to reach our destination.  It’s safe to say my mother loved the adventure, my father hated the lack of luxury.  The three children were unanimous in our appreciation of being different, if not always totally convinced by the food, entertainment and activities on offer.  It’s a long time since I’ve taken the ferry from Dover to Calais and I was genuinely curious about what to expect.  Especially since we’ve joined the EU and left it again since I was a regular ferry user!

It’s worth noting that our trip with DFDS was taken out of school holiday times, and, transport-wise, everything was really smooth. We arrived at the ferry terminal with plenty of time, parked up in the queue and made our way into the terminal building for a quick coffee and rest break before it was time to embark.  Getting on the ship was a piece of cake (ok I wasn’t driving!) and we’d got tickets for the premier lounge so we were able to relax with complimentary snacks and drinks and with plenty of power points to charge up phones and other devices.  A wander on deck gave us the chance to look back at those famous white cliffs and there was plenty of time to try the breakfast in the restaurant and to take a look at the onboard duty-free.

It seemed like no time at all before we arrived in Calais.  In fact, the journey is just 90 minutes so, it’s perfectly possible to arrive in France with a bit of time to explore before lunch.  And, there are 30 sailings each day, so plenty of flexibility in timing.

One of the biggest benefits of travelling by car ferry is that you have your own transport when you are there. That means you can opt to stay in Calais itself if you like but can also explore the surrounding countryside and beaches.  So, here are a few things to do where you’ll need transport – and a few you can do just staying in the town.

Exploring Pas de Calais

 1.  Go walking around Cap Blanc Nez and Cap Gris Nez. 

Both of these spots have an important place in history.  Cap BlankNez (literally ‘cape white nose’) is very similar to the white cliffs of Dover on the other side of the channel.  It’s a high point where the chalk ridge forms a cliff, topped by the obelisk commemorating the Dover Patrol, which kept the Channel free from U-Boats during the First World War.  It’s also important for the role it played in linking the Paris Observatory to the Royal Greenwich Observatory.  From Cap Blanc Nez it’s possible to see across the Channel to Dover Castle and to the South Downs.

Half an hour away by car (or around three and a half hours on foot), Cap Gris Nez is the closest point in France to England (just 34km). It’s a great place to go fossil hunting.  It’s also popular with ornithologists – a stopping point for many migratory birds. Napoleon set up a semaphore here in 1805 as part of plans to invade England.  And it’s also important for the role it played in the Second World War – the French Naval commandant Ducuing and his men died here defending the semaphore from the Germans.

2.  Visit La Coupole

Channel your favourite Thunderbirds character and discover La Coupole.  This massive concrete dome, built into the side of an old quarry 5 km from St Omer is now a museum and planetarium. 

But, it was originally constructed between 1943 and 1944 as the base for launching V2 rockets against London.  These missiles rank as some of the most innovative devices developed during the Second World War, the world’s first long-range guided ballistic missiles.  La Coupole itself was built by a team of German construction workers with additional labour from French conscripts and Soviet prisoners of war. It was heavily bombed by the Allies and abandoned during the summer of 1944.

Today it’s a fascinating heritage site.  There’s a wealth of memorabilia from everyday life during German occupation along with a stunning collection of missiles and rockets.

3.  Explore the towns of Bologne sur Mer and St Omer.

The area around Calais is a great place to explore.  From the Gothic cathedral of St-Omer to Nausicaa, Europe’s largest aquarium, in Boulogne sur Mer, you can find plenty to keep everyone happy.  St Omer, with its network of canals surrounded by the 3,700 hectares of the Marais Audomarois, has some fantastic restaurants while Boulogne sur Mer is France’s largest fishing port and home to a UNESCO inscribed belfry.  

Things to do in Calais itself

If you don’t want to leave town, there’s plenty to see and do in Calais itself.

 1. Hang out at the beach

Calais has a stunning beach with the kind of golden sands that make it a picture-book destination.  With free parking and plenty of street food kiosks on the promenade, it’s a great place to relax for a few hours. 

Sunbathe or swim, the choice is yours.  Or just walk along the seafront and take in the view.

2. Take in a Panoramic View at the top of the Belfry, Calais Town Hall

The Belfry is part of a UNESCO site straddling France and Belgium made up of towers that were part of the old Duchy of Burgundy and the Historic County of Flanders.  The whole building looks older than it is, the main town hall was designed in the neo-Flemish style and although work started in 1911, the building wasn’t completed until 1925. 

There’s a lift to the observation platform in the Belfry so everyone can enjoy the great views out over the city and beyond. 

Just outside you’ll find Rodin’s statue of the Burghers of Calais

3. Learn about the History of Lacemaking in Calais

The story of lacemaking in Calais is complex and fascinating. 

At the Museum of Lace, you can learn all about lacemaking in general and explore the story of how Calais became the centre of lace in the 19th Century thanks to manufacturing techniques from England. 

You’ll get the chance to see some of the old machines in action and to explore the world of lace fashion from the Middle Ages to the current day.

4. Enjoy the Seafood

With France’s largest fishing port just down the road, it’s hardly surprising that there are some great restaurants in Calais with seafood specialities.  We enjoyed a meal at Aquar’aile, a fine dining restaurant on the fourth floor of a residential block.

Apart from fabulous fish dishes, it’s somewhere to enjoy panoramic views out over the beach and the sea.  Turn up for an evening meal and you might be lucky like us and benefit from a beautiful sunset. 

If fine dining isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other places to indulge in seafood – from kiosks on the seafront through to casual bars and bistros. 

5. Take a Ride on a Dragon

For children and the young at heart, what could be better than travelling along the seafront in the body of a spitting, smoking and fire-blowing dragon?

  You’ll get a birds-eye view of the beach and you can marvel at the mechanics of this beast.  It’s a colossal creature made of steel and carved wood and created by François Delaroziere. 

For forty-five minutes you can be part of the dragon, watching the controllers keep the beast in order. While it doesn’t quite manage to fly there are moments when you just might think it is going to do so.

Of course, there’s plenty more to do.  And, once you are ready to go home, you’ll be able to visit the DFDS Calais Duty-Free Shop and stock up on wines, spirits and more before enjoying a comfy journey home. 

It’s one of the few benefits of Brexit for me!

I travelled from Dover to Calais with DFDS Ferries.

There are regular crossings throughout the day, 7 Days a week.  The journey takes around 90 minutes.