Last Updated on April 8, 2024
I’m luxuriating on the Eurostar in one of the Business Premiere Class carriages. The best kind of travel – stress-free, comfortable and with good food and wine on hand. And, for my money the best way to get from London to Brussels where the low-lying land can result in dense fog and delays to flights. In any case, I’m travelling onward to Mons in the Southern part of Belgium, close to the French borders.
That’s about an hour by train with no need to change stations in Belgium. If you thought the best of Belgium was in the North – Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges – think again. The charming cities of Wallonia have much to offer and Mons is an excellent example.
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Introduction to Mons
I first visited Mons for the annual Tanks in Town celebration which you can read more about here. In 2024 Tanks in Town will take place at the end of August. It’s a must for anyone interested in history – but more than that, it’s a genuine and vibrant celebration marking the City’s liberation from the Germans.
That short visit left me intrigued. Here was a small city, one with a population of around 100,000 people that seemed so alive I wanted to return and find out more. With a history that dates back to Roman times, its own UNESCO World Heritage Site (the Belfry) and some truly amazing museums and art collections, Mons is somewhere that works well for a short break.
More than that though, it’s the calendar of events, including the UNESCO-listed Ducasse de Mons (Doudou). that makes Mons such a magical place. Just check your dates to make sure you pick the best time to visit. Then enjoy this vibrant and friendly city that is just a few hours from London UK
Mons en Lumières 2024
My trip was timed to coincide with Mons en Lumières – held this year for the first time at the end of January/beginning of February. A fascinating event over a 3km trail through the city, every corner held another surprise. Perfectly timed for those dark months after Christmas and before Spring, Mons was stunningly illuminated.
Opened by the poet Robert Montgomery, the event started with a flaming setting of one of his poems before we continued through a series of fabulous installations. Despite (and in fact at times because of) the sporadic rain, it was truly amazing and felt as if the entire city were out on that first evening. I particularly remember sitting inside the Collegiate Church of Sainte Waudru, listening and watching the light display.
For me, it was a quintessentially Belgian experience with quirky and surreal installations that reflected the heritage of the city (fish in the fish market anyone?)
Must See Attractions in Mons
The special events throughout the year are only a complement to the city itself which would make a perfect short break at any time. There are a wealth of places to visit, all a short walk from the city centre
The Belfry
The Belfry of Mons is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which dates back to the 17th century, a testament to the city’s rich history.
Open to the public, you can see the mechanisms of the Belfry clock and the carillon of bells along with an exhibition about the City and surrounding area. Rising over 87 meters, its majestic tower dominates the skyline, offering panoramic views of Mons and the surrounding countryside.
Originally built as a watchtower to guard against invasions, it evolved into a symbol of civic pride and freedom for Mons. Its carillon, with its melodic chimes, adds to the allure, echoing through the cobbled streets.
Arthothèque
The Artothèque of Mons is a cultural gem nestled in the heart of Mons, Belgium. Founded in 1984, it serves as a repository of contemporary art, showcasing the works of local and international artists.
It’s an astonishing place where you can learn more about the art that is stored there along with exploring the detail of the works via touch screen tables.
Most of the original artworks and treasures are stored behind closed doors, carefully indexed and labelled. There’s everything from one of Rodin’s first works to original sketches by Van Gogh, along with beautiful china, historic clothing and children’s toys, all stored away neatly!
Collegiate Church of Sainte Waudru
A masterpiece of Gothic architecture and a testament to centuries of religious devotion. Dating back to the 15th century, its soaring spires and intricate façade draw visitors from far and wide.
Inside, ornate stained glass windows and majestic vaulted ceilings create an atmosphere of awe and reverence. As a place of worship and historical significance, it stands as a cornerstone of Mons’ cultural heritage, inviting exploration and contemplation.
It’s also home to the stunning “Châsse de Sainte Waudru” or the Shrine of Saint Waudru the patron saint of Mons, The shrine is believed to contain the relics or remains of Saint Waudru, a medieval figure revered for her piety and charitable works. The shrine is often paraded through the streets of Mons during religious festivals and processions such as the Doudou
Maison Lousseau
This building was the home of the Lousseau family and of Mons lawyer, Léon Lousseau. He transformed the house into a sumptuous showcase of art nouveau décor.
A collector in all senses of the word, he filled the house with treasures, books and more. Now a museum it’s somewhere not just to understand more about Art Nouveau but to discover Lousseau himself who was responsible for creating this cultural centre.
Musée du Doudou
If you miss the Doudou itself, the Musée du Doudou will give you some of the flavour of the events, with vintage photos and stories about the origin of this fascinating festival.
Mons Memorial Museum
A poignant tribute to the city’s rich military history, particularly its role in World War I (Mons was the site where British troops first encountered their German enemies).
The museum showcases artefacts, documents, and multimedia exhibits that narrate Mons’ wartime experiences. Visitors can explore various aspects of the conflict, including trench warfare, civilian life during occupation, and the city’s liberation
Le Cap/Museum of Fine Arts
Opening in April 2024, Le CAP is a brand new museum complex located in Mons town centre, in the newly-refurbished house and lapidary garden of Jean Lescarts. Le CAP comprises 3 entities: the lapidary garden with its friendly space, the house harbouring the town’s collections and Museum of Fine Arts, which will continue to showcase exceptional exhibitions. Welcome to a unique discovery experience dedicated to culture, art and heritage
Mundaneum
The Mundaneum in Mons, Belgium, is an innovative institution that traces its roots back to the early 20th century. Founded by Belgian lawyers Paul Otlet and Henri La Fontaine, the Mundaneum aimed to gather, organize, and disseminate knowledge from around the world. Often referred to as the “Paper Google” of its time, it housed an extensive collection of documents, including books, periodicals, photographs, and index cards. Otlet envisioned a universal repository of human knowledge accessible to all, laying the groundwork for modern information science
Key events in Mons for 2024
As mentioned, Mons is a city where something special always seems to be happening. Key events for 2024 include the following
Rodin Exhibition – CAP/Fine Arts Museum of Mons – 13 April 2024- 18 August 2024
To celebrate the opening of the Fine Arts Museum, there’s a special Rodin exhibition which will include the statue from the Arthoteque – the first bronze statue that Rodin created during a period early in his career when he lived in Belgium
The Doudou – 22 May 2024- 2 June 2024
The Doudou of Mons is celebrated annually on Trinity Sunday. It includes the Procession of the Car d’Or, showcasing Saint George’s battle with the dragon – The highlight of the procession is the “Lumeçon” or “Combat du Lumeçon,” a dramatic reenactment of the battle between Saint George and the dragon, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil.
This battle takes place in the Grand Place of Mons, where crowds gather to witness the spectacle. It also includes the “Ducasse,” preceding rituals like the “Lancer de Lumeçons” and the “Descente de la châsse de Sainte Waudru.” This vibrant tradition is recognized as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
St John’s Fire – June 2024
This celebration originates from the feast day of St. John the Baptist, which falls on June 24th and is often merged with summer solstice festivities. In Mons
Tanks in Town
From Friday 26th August to Sunday 28th August 2024, Mons is transformed into a living tribute to the allies who liberated the city in 1944. The city is filled with WWII tanks and military vehicles, with drivers and participants dressed in costume. There’s music and dancing in the main square – a real celebration!
Mons Coeur en Neige (Christmas Market)
Like many European Cities, Mons has a fabulous Christmas Market. There’s a giant covered skating rink, an artisan village and life-size decorations in this friendly and welcoming city.
Where to Stay in Mons
Without a doubt, Martin’s Dream Hotel is a wonderful place to stay in the city. Built into a 19th Century Chapel, it manages to seamlessly combine contemporary design with original features in comfortable and practical accommodation over four floors.
Some of the rooms still have the original chapel windows – and have been carefully designed to highlight these stunning arched windows and magnificent architecture. There’s air-conditioning throughout the hotel and modern, well-equipped bathrooms.
The hotel has its own spa offering a range of treatments, Hamman, sauna and jacuzzi and a fitness room.
There’s a relaxed bistro serving excellent lunches and dinners and an extensive buffet-style breakfast with both hot and cold options.
How to get to Mons from the UK
The easiest way to reach Mons is by train.
Take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Brussels Midi (the journey takes just under two hours). There are around two trains an hour from Brussels to Mons (you don’t need to change stations) and the journey time is less than an hour. Mons station is a stone’s throw from the centre of the city on foot.
If you are bringing your car to mainland Europe, take the E19 Paris to Brussels motorway to Exit 24 for Mons.
There are regular flights from UK airports to Brussels. The closest airport is Brussels South Charleroi, around 30 minutes from Mons by car or Brussels airport is 50 minutes from Mons
Useful Links
For further information about Mons or to buy a Mons Card please check the Tourist Information Office online or at
Grand-Place 27
7000 Mons
Wallonia
Belgium
tel +32 (0)65/33.55.80
info.tourisme@ville.mons.be
To stay at Martin’s Dream Hotel, check their website here
To find out more about travelling to Mons via Eurostar, check their website. You can buy a ticket that will take you from London to any Belgian city from there.
If you would like more information about Mons and other places to visit in Wallonia, check the Wallonia Tourist Board Site
