48 hours in Copenhagen – Part One.

Nick Devonald

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Copenhagen-Nyhavn-day

Last Updated on April 6, 2026

Even without the Little Mermaid, there’s so much to experience that you need more than just a weekend

For those looking for a weekend break, travel media often tries to condense a destination down into its ‘’best bits’’, the must-sees, the touristy basics, so that you can say you’ve ‘’done’’ city X – and have the photos to prove it.

Wonderful Copenhagen, though, really is wonderful. One of Europe’s most interesting and enjoyable cities, it needs time to get to know it properly – certainly more than a weekend.

This is the first part of a canter through what there is to see and do in Copenhagen. Some are personal favourites, others should be on everyone’s list, but the best thing is to go and find your own Copenhagen – there’s so much to enjoy!

Copenhagen Little Mermaid tourists 1

Missable Little Mermaid

First, what not to see – the Little Mermaid statue. Yes, it’s iconic – it’s Copenhagen’s Eiffel Tower or Big Ben – but unlike these two, it’s sadly rather unimpressive in real life. The backdrop, so carefully kept out of most camera shots, is quite industrial, and the statue itself is usually surrounded by a crowd of selfie-seeking tourists.

I’d say it was missable (but I suspect you’ll end up there anyway – some things are hard not to do).

Central Copenhagen

Central Copenhagen is fairly compact and very walkable (and cyclable) with plenty of pedestrian streets and areas.

Nyhavn, just by the central square Kongens Nytorv, is popular for good reason- it’s pretty, picturesque, and perfect for sitting at the many waterside restaurants enjoying a Tuborg beer or two and people-watching. Yes, it’s touristy, but there is a reason for that – it is very charming and very photogenic day or night.

Copenhagen Nyhavn night 1

Strøget, the main shopping street (and the oldest and longest pedestrian street in the world) runs for over two miles from Kongens Nytorv to Rådhusplassen, the impressive town hall square (which will be familiar to fans of the Danish TV hit The Killing). With its offshoots and squares, Strøget (and its quieter little sibling, Straedet) offers plenty of restaurants, cafes, fast-food outlets, gift shops, and department stores.

One of the best spots is the colourful, cobble-stoned Gråbrødretorv (Greyfriars Place), north of Strøget. Prettily lined with a range of restaurants, it’s great for outdoor summer dining and drinking.

Christianshavn

At the end of Nyhavn runs a chilly channel of Baltic water, roughly dividing Copenhagen into north and south. Christianshavn, to the south, is a delightful place to wander, especially along the pretty canal, taking in its cafes and boats.

Copenhagen Christianshavn view of channel 1

The channel’s latest crossing point, Inderhavnsbroen (Inner Harbour Bridge – more romantically nicknamed the Kissing Bridge) slides open to allow large boats to pass through, then then slide back.  It’s a great example of how Copenhagen has embraced the best in modern design while respecting its more traditional architecture.

Along the waterfront, high-profile public buildings, like the new library, opera house and theatre (all royal) have appeared in the last few years, all strikingly contemporary but put where they can be best admired away from the older, traditional brick buildings. 

Copenhagen-view-of-north-waterfront-

Christianshavn is home to Christiania, the famous/notorious hippy ‘’freetown’’. Although not to everyone’s taste, it has been one of Denmark’s most popular tourist attractions ever since the 70s, despite being on the dodgy side of edgy, especially around Pusher Street.

Much more wholesome is Vor Frelsers Kirke (Our Saviour’s Church), one of several great spots for a panoramic view of Copenhagen rooftops. Ascending Vor Frelsers Kirke, though, is a bit different – you ascend on the outside, following the open-air spiral walkway up to the top. Maybe not for the faint-hearted, but it’s great fun – that’s what the survivors say anyway…

Copenhagen-waterfront-towards-Fisketorvet.

Photo: David Edgar

For culture vultures, there’s a plethora of superb galleries.

Carlsberg brewing magnate Carl Jacobsen was a passionate collector of ancient and modern art and sculpture. In 1897, he decided to build a gallery worthy of his collection, the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. It’s a beautiful building worth a visit in its own right, with high ceilings and a winter garden of palm trees, a fountain and a pond.

Egyptian, Greek, Etruscan and Roman art all feature alongside works from Denmark’s Golden Age and French Impressionists. There are more than 40 works by Gauguin, Degas’ bronzes and 35 sculptures by Rodin. It’s an excellent museum/gallery, a bit like New York’s Met in its collections of beautiful objects from all periods.

Copenhagen-Ny-Carlsberg-Glyptotek-winter-garden

A unique collection is to be found at Thorvaldsens Museum. Dedicated to half-Danish, half-Icelandic sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, it is both a gallery devoted to his astonishing neo-classical statues – and it’s his mausoleum: he’s buried in the courtyard.

Thorvaldsen spent most of his working life in Rome; his tomb monument of Pope Pius VII is the only work by a non-Catholic in St Peter’s. Like the Ny Glyptotek, the building itself is a gem: its grand architecture sets off Thorvaldsen’s impressive statues of gods and historical figures.

Copenhagen Thorvaldsens Museum interior 1

As well as temporary exhibitions, Statens Museum for Kunst, Denmark’s National Gallery, features rich and varied examples of Nordic and international art from the past seven hundred years, including works by Rubens, Matisse and Munch, alongside cutting-edge contemporary artists.

Not far from SMK, the fabulous David Samling has the largest collection of Islamic art in Scandinavia and is one of the most important in the West. Covering almost the whole Islamic world from the 8th to the 19th centuries, it features beautiful calligraphy, miniatures, carpets, ceramics, carving, weapons and jewellery.

A short train ride north of Copenhagen will bring you to the world-renowned Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, not just a leading international art gallery, but a destination in its own right, where art and architecture meet in a lovely coastal setting.

Louisiania exterior planets among trees 1

Photo: David Edgar

Or take a train south to ARKEN for more modern art in a wonderful ark-like gallery by the sea, featuring one of Scandinavia’s finest collections of contemporary art. Here, you’ll find a major collection of Damian Hirst’s works, tapestries by Grayson Perry and an important sculpture by Ai Weiwei.

Copenhagen-bakery-window-pastries

That’s the end of part one. In the second part of my guide to Copenhagen, there’ll be Hamlet’s castle, Renaissance palaces and unmissable Tivoli.

For more information, see Visit Copenhagen.

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