Last Updated on December 15, 2023

A guide to skiing, eating, après and non-ski activities in the capital of the Portes du Soleil.

Guest Post by Kimberley Button

Big wide pistes with breathtaking views, sheltered runs through the forest, accessible powder bowls and world-class snow parks; Morzine offers rich and varied skiing in the colossal Portes du Soleil domain. One pass opens up 600km of groomed piste across a majestic mountain range that sits between Mont Blanc in France and Lake Geneva in Switzerland.

But impressive as it might be, it is not just the skiing that has kept tourists coming back to this corner of the French Alps since Edwardian times. Morzine itself is a lively year-round destination, which somehow mixes the old and new, without sacrificing its charm as a proper Alpine village. The surrounding valley is dotted with wooden chalets and farmhouses, with not a high-rise in sight; a farmers market takes place every Wednesday; and a pretty square complete with a vintage carousel and outdoor ice rink makes an attractive focal point of the village.

The après scene is alive and kicking, with live bands, DJs and festivals satisfying revellers of all ages; and a growing menu of off-slope activities deliver everything from the latest gravity-fuelled thrills to the gentle pleasures of snowshoeing, yoga and forest bathing. Morzine offers the best of all worlds to a diverse range of visitors, from families and couples to big groups and die-hard skiers.

Skiing

Morzine sits right in the heart of one of the biggest ski areas in the world. An excellent lift infrastructure provides access to the mountain range, but it is spread out across the valley, so it pays to spend a moment deciding where you want to ski and locating the appropriate lift from which to start your day.

Pick up a piste map and you’ll see skiing is split between two key areas: Morzine Pleney, Les Gets and Nyon on one side, and Avoriaz, Chatel and Switzerland on the other. The Pleney ski lift takes skiers from the main front de neige (snow area where the slopes meet the village) towards the Pleney, Nyon and Les Gets ski areas. At the top, you’ll find a beginners’ area, with a magic carpet and green nursery slopes, plus access to the cherished Penguin Park, a kids’ ski area with totem poles, arches and a giant xylophone.

Intermediate and experienced skiers can join a compact network of pistes from tree-lined blue pistes, to more steep and challenging red runs. Further afield, the south-facing slopes of Les Gets offer plenty of options for cruising around amidst stunning views, whilst the Nyon and Chammosière areas are excellent exploration and progression grounds for more advanced skiers looking to get their kicks from bigger verticals or powder.

On the opposite side of Morzine, the high peaks of Avoriaz beckon skiers into another huge ski area, which opens up access to Les Lindarets, Chatel and the Swiss resorts of the Portes du Soleil. This area is also geared up for all abilities, with a small network of green runs, plenty of blues and reds, as well as several steep blacks.

Experts can head to the challenging Hauts Forts secteur or the Swiss Wall, a piste famed for its 76% gradient, making it one of the most difficult ski runs in the world. Off-piste powder havens require little effort to reach but get up early, the ease of access means many areas get tracked quickly.

Dining

Morzine’s foodie scene is diverse, unstuffy and quite unexpected for a French ski resort. From fine dining spots to casual cafes and cosy mountain restaurants, you’ll find menus range from Savoyard specialities to inventive European, Asian and vegan food.

La Ferme de la Fruitiere is a welcoming spot for a fondue, raclette or pierre chaude. Part of a working farm and dairy, it’s a joy to try the farm’s own cheeses in the cosy restaurant. Meat lovers should also try Le Grillon on Route de la Plagne, which serves an excellent, reasonably priced, Cote de boeuf.

Above the Marie in Hideout Hostel’s restaurant, there’s an upbeat vibe and a vibrant menu focussed on Asian street food with a tasty selection of bao buns, bowls, gyozas and small plates.

For more fresh flavours, and not your average ski resort fare, the menu at the Bec Jaune Brewery is designed with both meat eaters and veggies in mind, and everything – even the burger buns and ramen – are homemade.

When only fine dining will do, La Chamade is the place to head. Chef Thierry Thorens makes exceptional use of local, seasonal produce in refined, experimental dishes. Book the chef’s table for a real treat.

Après

Après ski in Morzine can range from laid-back sundowners to dancing on table tops, and everything in between. At the bottom of the Pleney gondola, you’ll find Le Tremplin, one of Morzine’s prime après ski spots. Come sundown live DJs take over the large outdoor terrace to draw in some of the biggest crowds in town.

Over in Avoriaz the legendary après party brand, La Folie Douce, opened its doors four seasons ago. Its high-energy formula of live DJs, cabaret and themed parties gets skiers raving on table tops every afternoon of the week.

If club tunes are not your thing, the Cavern’s live music session in Morzine attracts some great bands and a lively crowd. Head here as early as 4 pm and you’ll find the place packed out for its generous happy hour.

For a more relaxed vibe, the bistro Le Colibri serves excellent cocktails, whilst La Chaudanne restaurant has an intimate wine bar tucked away in its downstairs cellar. Another mentionable spot, Le Coup de Coeur is a bustling little wine bar, which can be accessed from the village’s central square, making it perfect for warming up after a skate on the outdoor rink.

Non-ski and wellness activities

Whether you’re a non-skier, taking a rest day, or just fancy something a little different, Morzine offers plenty to do when not on the slopes. Get a taste of Alpine culture by trying something new, like Husky sledging, snowmobiling or Ski Joëring (the Scandinavian sport whereby skiers are pulled by a horse through the snowy countryside). Morzine is also a big Paragliding destination. Take a tandem ride over the cliffs of Avoriaz, taking in the peaks and valleys of the region, before landing on Morzine’s snow front.

Nature lovers will enjoy a trip to the top of the Nyon Telepherique to see the owls, buzzards and eagles homed in the winter aviaries of the Nyon restaurant. The area is dedicated to endangered birds of prey, with free falconry shows and nature trails.

Perhaps thanks to its status as a training ground for world-class athletes and competitive mountain sports, Morzine has a blossoming wellness movement. Alongside its selection of beautiful spas and treatment rooms, you’ll find classes in mindfulness, yoga and forest bathing offered by the professionals at Morzine’s yoga studio. At the top of town, Hive is a new venue for mindfulness, exercise and nutrition, with a well-equipped gym, Pilates studio and cafe.

Where to stay

Morzine has a great range of accommodation to suit all budgets and styles, from self-catered apartments to fully catered chalets and 5-star hotels. For a central spot in Morzine’s pretty old town, The Farmhouse Hotel is a charismatic boutique hotel nestled inside Morzine’s oldest building. Guests are welcomed into a cosy lounge area with a crackling open fireplace and sleep in bedrooms including a former cobbler’s shop, carpenter workshop, seamstresses and the town’s former prison cell.

Find out more about Morzine and Portes du Soleil in Summer

Photos by StoryCrafters (https://www.thestorycrafters.com/en/)

Kimberley Button

Kimberly is a content creator and communications consultant based in the French Alps. She is passionate about travel and outdoor life, and sharing her adventures with other like-minded individuals. When she is not busy raising her two energetic daughters or battling with the French language, you’ll generally find her somewhere in the mountains.