Last Updated on February 7, 2024

A Story of Tuscan Romance at Relais La Corte dei Papi

Relais La Corte dei Papi sits at the crossroads of Tuscany and Umbria, just a few minutes from the ancient Etruscan city of Cortona, nestled amidst the captivating rolling hills that define the beautiful Tuscan landscape. Tuscany unveils a different yet enchanting side in winter, the sun-drenched landscapes of summer give way to a serene, poetic beauty. The famed vineyards shed their leaves, revealing a rustic charm and medieval villages don a quiet elegance under a crisp winter sky.

This elegant rural boutique hotel was originally a seventeenth-century farmhouse which has been handed down eight generations of the Papi family to its current owners, David, and his mother Gabrielle. It has been meticulously restored, seamlessly combining the grace of its storied past with contemporary sophistication, offering an infusion of superior elegance, comfort, and appeal.

Upon arrival, I was warmly greeted by the owner, David. It was his charming demeanour and exceptional hospitality throughout my stay that transformed it into such an enjoyable and distinctive home-from-home experience.

The Grounds at Relais La Corte dei Papi

The quiet hamlets, vast vineyards, and olive groves of Tuscany create a picturesque and peaceful setting. The grand stone building of Relais La Corte dei Papi, along with its two separate cottages dating back to the 1600s, proudly showcased many well-maintained original features.
The residence is idyllically set within sprawling grounds which are reminiscent of an Italian Renaissance Garden, featuring gravel and stone slab pathways lined with traditional lampposts, urn-shaped planters, sculptures, an ancient well, a row of cypress trees and a magnificent 900-year-old olive tree that encapsulates the estate’s ancient origins.

Beneath it sits gorgeous antique stone furniture. Beyond the property, is a rich pine forest and a stunning vista of the Tuscan countryside. Although it was December at the time of my visit you couldn’t help but admire the extensive private swimming pool area which is set amongst the splendid gardens with shaded terraces near the pool, perfect for enjoying al-fresco life in the warmer months of the year.

Accommodation at Relais La Corte dei Papi

A stay at Relais La Corte dei Papi revolves around a sense of well-being and romance, further enriched by the lavish accommodations. There are 16 spacious rooms and suites, each meticulously and individually restored in Renaissance style, featuring exposed beam ceilings and wooden flooring, each one ensuring a personalised experience. All rooms feature Nespresso coffee machines, a mini fridge and complimentary WIFI, and the doors are unlocked with large brass antique keys on tufted chains.
My opulent Deluxe Spa Suite on the second floor of the property was set to impress, on arrival I was met with a table laid with cold meats and cheeses, inviting sweet treats and a lovely welcoming letter, all of which made me feel immediately at home.

My resplendent king-sized bed was adorned with luxurious silk-embroidered bed linen. The room boasted intricate gold and silver baroque-style furniture, gold gilt mirrors and a glamorous traditional curl-embellished armoire. The bathroom was stocked with a selection of divine-smelling Italian toiletries from the Roberto Cavalli brand.

The pièce de resistance was a private double jacuzzi, and an impressive multi-sensory shower and Turkish bath, which provides aromatherapy, music therapy, and chromotherapy (colour therapy – a complementary alternative medicine practice using colours to promote health and well-being). You can spend hours pampering yourself in style, especially as you are gifted with a selection of luscious body scrubs. You also have the option to arrange private massage treatments including facials, couples’ massages, and foot reflexology, along with fitness classes, in the convenience of your room for an extra fee.

On a tour of the property, I was able to view several of the alternative accommodations. For an elevated experience, consider choosing one of the three Exclusive Spa Suites, offering 5-80 square meters of space, larger Jacuzzi tubs, and super king-size beds. Alternatively, there’s the expansive Imperial Spa Suite, spanning a generous 95 square meters and featuring a sizable private garden.

For those celebrating special occasions or honeymooning, the L’Antico Granaio (Bridal Suite) is a dreamy choice, spread across two floors this fairy tale suite has the wow factor. On the ground floor, it offers a remarkable private spa with a spacious Jacuzzi hydromassage tub, while the top floor is dedicated entirely to the bedroom, complete with a four-poster canopy bed.

Additionally, two Deluxe Spa Cottages with independent entrances and private gardens provide couples with added privacy. These gorgeous cottages feature a Turkish bath with chromium and music therapy. Whichever you choose, each room or suite is marked by elegance and thoughtful details.

Events and wedding venue

Relais La Corte Dei Papi is one of Tuscany’s most exclusive wedding venues, offering a story of luxurious Tuscan romance, catering for up to 150 guests with immaculate facilities. It boasts a stunning events room, overlooking the pool area.

Wining and Dining at Relais La Corte dei Papi

Dining at Relais La Corte dei Papi was one of the highlights of my visit. Dinner during my stay, and in the colder months of the year is served in the elegant dining room which is tucked away in the cellar of the original residence. Surrounded by ancient stone walls, this lovely setting creates a wonderfully warm and romantic atmosphere.

During the summer months, guests dine al fresco beneath a wrought-iron gazebo positioned alongside the shimmering swimming pool, I can envision the splendour of leisurely sipping wine amidst the serenade of cicadas, all while relishing the lush gardens, vibrant flowers, and the idyllic Tuscan scenery.

In the kitchen stands Head Chef Giuseppe Masciopinto, a longstanding collaborator with David at La Corte dei Papi. Boasting a diverse culinary journey, Giuseppe has honed his skills in renowned restaurants across Italy and beyond, with some earning prestigious Michelin accolades. Together with his dedicated team, he enchants diners with a culinary spectacle, offering a blend of glorious Tuscan cuisine infused with artistic innovation and contemporary finesse, always using fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients.

I was enthusiastically introduced to the local cuisine, eating superb four-course dinners throughout my stay, with each course elegantly plated and meticulously crafted from scratch. The menu included handmade pasta, locally sourced meats, seafood from the Tuscan coast, freshly baked bread, and delightful desserts.

Dinner unfolded in the company of impeccable wine pairings curated from David’s extensive cellar, notably excellent wines sourced from the property’s historic farm and vineyards with labels adorned with a distinctive breed of horse. Adding a touch of theatrical flair to the proceedings, the waiter artfully rinsed the wine glasses with the wine at the table before they were filled.

On my first day at Corte dei Papi, a group of us enjoyed a lively morning with Giuseppe in his kitchen, as he generously shared some of his culinary secrets. Together, we crafted delicious Pecorino flans with pear sauce and honey, skilfully rolled out fresh pasta, witnessed the sizzling transformation of a rustic tomato sauce, and, as Giuseppe expertly prepared magnificent tomahawk steaks, we all constructed our trifles. Subsequently, we gathered around the table for a fabulous lunch, savouring our four-course meal in a manner befitting Italian nobility.

A buffet breakfast was served in the dining room, the spread included an array of delectable pastries and cakes, a selection of cereals, yoghurt, various types of bread, cold meats, and an assortment of well-crafted cheeses, along with a choice of juices, freshly brewed coffee, and tea.

Experiences and Places to Explore in Tuscany

Relais La Corte dei Papi, is a relaxing and tranquil retreat worthy of long lazy days relaxing in your suite, enjoying the beautiful grounds, or experiencing epicurean delights or a splendid cookery lesson with Giuseppe.

However, if you’re a golfer, a visit to Antognolla Golf in Perugia, just an hour’s drive away, might pique your interest. Alternatively, delve into the enchanting world of truffle hunting in the Umbrian woods, indulge in olive oil and wine tasting, or partake in a splendid cookery lesson at Corte dei Papi, as I had the pleasure of experiencing.

You will undoubtedly want to explore the local towns and cities. The hotel’s location makes it the perfect base to discover Tuscany, with Siena, less than an hour’s drive away and Florence a two-hour drive. During my brief stay, I visited nearby Cortona and Montepulciano (a 40-minute drive from Relais La Corte dei Papi).

Cortona

Cortona is perched on a ridge at 600 meters, offering captivating views of the picturesque Val di Chiana and the surrounding vineyards and olive groves below. The elevated position of the town provides an ideal vantage point for witnessing breathtaking sunsets over the rolling hills. On the day of our visit, the town was enveloped in a magical mist which made it especially atmospheric.

Cortona gained renown through Frances Mayes’ 1996 memoir and the subsequent blockbuster film, “Under the Tuscan Sun”, it’s easy to see why it has achieved such a romantic allure. Steeped in history, the town’s pretty narrow, winding streets are lined with medieval and Renaissance-era buildings, bathed in shades of dusty yellow, creating a scenic and timeless atmosphere.

The town holds historical significance as a former Etruscan League city and is known for its well-preserved Etruscan and Roman artefacts, including ancient city walls and archaeological sites. We visited the MAEC – Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca e della Città di Cortona, the museum houses a significant collection of Etruscan and Roman archaeological finds, paintings, sculptures, and other items of historical and artistic importance.

Cortona is home to notable landmarks such as the Palazzo Comunale and the Duomo, both of which showcase impressive architectural details and artistic treasures. The attractive town square, Piazza della Repubblica, serves as a central hub, where locals and visitors alike gather in pretty cafes and restaurants.

The culinary scene in Cortona is rich, offering traditional Tuscan fare made with locally sourced ingredients. Finding good places to eat is not difficult, we enjoyed a fantastic lunch at Ristorante La Loggetta, sharing a luxurious truffle fondue before indulging in truffle risotto (reflecting my profound love for truffles!).

Cortona’s distinctive combination of history, art, and natural beauty, coupled with a relaxed pace of life, makes it a delightful destination for those in search of an authentic Tuscan experience.

Montepulciano

Arriving in Montepulciano on a crisp December afternoon, a chill lingered in the sparkling air, and a lazy mist gracefully hovered over the swoon-worthy landscape. This charming Tuscan hilltown, perched on a ridge at an elevation exceeding 600 meters, provides spectacular sweeping views of the undulating countryside, the meticulously tended vineyards and shaded olive groves.

Montepulciano rests in an air of sophistication, renowned for its medieval architecture, well-preserved city walls and gates, stunning vistas, and, notably, its association with fine wine production. Its allure lies in its combination of historical significance, rich cultural heritage, architectural beauty, culinary delights, and the rolling hills of the Tuscan landscape.

Our first stop was the magnificent San Biagio church, situated just outside the city walls. As we ventured into the town, we were greeted by alluring narrow, winding streets and historic buildings from the medieval and Renaissance eras, now adorned with festive twinkling lights. The air was filled with a lively holiday spirit, especially at the Piazza Grande, where a bustling Christmas market buzzed with activity, adorned with colourful stalls offering handcrafted treasures, aromatic delicacies, and the warm glow of festive decorations.

The town’s sites of note are the Palazzo the Comunale and the Duomo. The town hosts various events throughout the year, I was sorry not to get the opportunity to see the Bravio delle Botti, a historic barrel-rolling competition which is held in August!

Montepulciano is famous for its wine, particularly the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, a red wine that has earned DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) status, denoting the highest level of Italian wine classification. The surrounding vineyards contribute to the town’s agrarian charm, and wine enthusiasts can indulge in tastings and tours offered by local wineries.

Wine tasting at De Ricci Wine Cellar, Montepulciano

Nestled in the heart of Montepulciano, the De Ricci wine cellar stands as a testament to the region’s rich winemaking heritage. Visiting this enchanting cellar was not just a tasting experience; it was an immersive journey through time and terroir. The ancient vaults echo with the whispers of centuries, housing an impressive collection of meticulously crafted wines that showcase the essence of Montepulciano’s famed winemaking legacy.

We were given a tour by Nicolo, a member of the De Ricci family, who provided us with a wonderful insight into the history of these celebrated winemakers and their incredible premises.

Following the tour, we proceeded to the tasting room to savour a selection of exquisite wines by the glass complemented by a typical Tuscan platter. Each sip of this glorious wine tells a story, a narrative woven from the sun-soaked vineyards and the hands that lovingly tend to the vines. What a treat… I can recommend leaving some room in your suitcase to carry home a part of Montepulciano’s winemaking legacy with a bottle or two of De Ricci wine!

Following our adventure in Cortona and Montepulciano, we found our way back to the welcoming haven of Relais La Corte dei Papi, where yet another exceptional dinner awaited. Regrettably, the following day ushered in the inevitability of my return to London.

Back in the UK, I’m yearning to return and soak up the Tuscan sun again. The memories of David and his attentive crew at Relais La Corte dei Papi are vivid – their genuine warmth and classic Italian hospitality brought an authentic touch to my experience. It wasn’t just a place to stay; it evolved into a harmonious blend of relaxation, culture, fabulous food, and the awe-inspiring natural beauty that defines Tuscany.

Relais La Corte dei Papi

Address: Via La Dogana, 12, 52044 Cortona AR, Italy
Phone: +39 0575 614109
https://www.lacortedeipapi.com