Last Updated on November 30, 2025

Reasons to visit Portovenere – the ‘Sixth Town’ of Cinque Terre

As I eagerly shared my upcoming journey to Portovenere, Italy, with a friend, they echoed the common question: “Where is Portovenere?” It’s a fair inquiry, considering this charming enclave remains a well-kept secret tucked away along the north-western coast of Italy, gracing the shores of the Ligurian Sea. Officially recognised as the Gulf of La Spezia, this coastal treasure is affectionately dubbed the Gulf of Poets. In their formative years, this title was earned from its rich history as a gathering place for literary luminaries like Lord Byron, Percy, Mary Shelley, and D.H. Lawrence, bestowing upon it an aura of romanticism and allure.

Travelling to Portovenere

I travelled from London Stansted to Pisa International Airport, which is just over an hour’s drive to Portovenere. If you prefer not to drive, there are plenty of direct train connections from Genoa, Parma, and Pisa to the nearby La Spezia Central Train Station.

About Portovenere

Portovenere nestled alongside the famed and bustling Cinque Terre, quietly claims its place as the ‘sixth town’ and is often regarded as the epitome of coastal beauty. This quaint and picturesque town is situated in the Liguria region, its charm accentuated by fondant-coloured houses cascading down the hillside towards the azure waters of the Ligurian Sea, crafting a scene straight out of a picture postcard. The town is characterised by narrow cobblestone streets that wind through captivating squares lined with cafes and boutiques.

At the heart of Portovenere lies its historic centre, where ancient churches and medieval fortifications stand as a testament to its rich maritime history. From the medieval Doria Castle thought to have been built around 1160, to the striking Church of St. Peter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Portovenere is a treasure trove of architectural wonders. Beyond its cultural heritage, the town boasts breathtaking natural beauty, with rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and panoramic viewpoints offering stunning vistas of the coastline and surrounding islands.

Staying in Portovenere is an excellent launching pad to explore the neighbouring islands and towns. Often regarded as a gateway to the nearby Cinque Terre region, it grants effortless access via regular ferry services and a railway line which runs along the coast to the charming villages, scenic hiking trails, and vineyard-draped hillsides that characterise this coastal paradise.

The area is renowned for its incredibly clean water, fostering thriving industries such as mussel and oyster farming. It also boasts a reputation for its famous pesto, crafted from basil leaves considered exceptionally small and soft, contributing to its unique flavour profile, it’s quite delicious, and so much better than any pesto I’ve ever tasted before. I brought a freshly made pot home and have been living on it ever since.

The climate, characterised by its mildness, nurtures the flourishing growth of lemons, a testament to the region’s fertile soil. It also has a small but growing wine industry. The steeply terraced vineyards cling to the hillsides overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and produce a limited quantity of wine, primarily white wines made from grapes such as Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino.

Historically, during the 17th century, many European aristocrats included this destination in their Grand Tour. It served as a retreat for wealthy travellers seeking recuperation during the winter months, attracted by its tranquil atmosphere and therapeutic surroundings.

Where to stay – Grand Hotel Portovenere

My April visit offered a serene escape before the bustling summer season descended on the streets. I stayed at the five-star boutique Grand Hotel Portovenere, a historic gem with a rich past. Originally a 17th-century Franciscan convent and later a marine military hospital, it is now an elegant retreat steeped in history. Its graceful facade commands a prime position overlooking the Gulf of Poets, framing each window like a picturesque canvas. This charming hotel seamlessly blends old-world Renaissance-era charm with modern design, welcoming guests from the end of March to the beginning of November.

Presently featuring 45 comfortable rooms and suites decorated in smooth, chalky shades, the hotel is expanding with a new wing adjacent, promising an additional 20 high-end suites.

From my corner suite with a wraparound balcony overlooking the bay, I was utterly captivated by the breathtaking vista before me. The spectacular viewpoint afforded me a sweeping view, allowing me to gaze upon the bustling harbour and town below as well as the glistening bay stretching out into the distance.

The room boasted a sumptuous king-size bed, a bath, and a wonderfully powerful rain shower that put my London drizzle to shame. It was equipped with thoughtful little touches, including a coffee machine, smart TV, shoeshine kit, mini bar, safe, towelling robes, and sweet-smelling bath products.

The service at the Grand Hotel is impeccable, with a warm and attentive staff who ensured nothing was too much trouble. We began our evening with an aperitif at the Venus Bar, where we delighted in the hotel’s speciality: a Ligurian spritz made with limoncello.

Later, we enjoyed a luxurious dinner at their  Palmaria Restaurant, which features a grand terrace looking right out to sea – a coveted spot, especially in warm weather. Here, we indulged in the freshest seafood dishes from this prime fishing area, freshly baked focaccia (a local speciality) along with luscious risottos and pasta bathed in local pesto.

And let’s not forget breakfast, with a view! The buffet spread includes a variety of options, with cooked dishes available to order, making for a delightful start to the day.

Portovenere offers an ideal location for exploring this beautiful area. The hotel can arrange excursions to enhance your experience.

Places to visit and excursions

Along the sun-dappled cobblestone streets and pretty squares, numerous trattorias, pizzerias, and bars await, offering a taste of authentic Italian cuisine. Our dining experience at 3 Torri restaurant was truly exceptional, as this beloved local trattoria is renowned for its exquisite fare. Here, we savoured dishes that showcased the freshest local ingredients, celebrating the flavours of both sea and the land.

With the Cinque Terre so close by it would be a missed opportunity not to explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site and the vibrant villages perched on cliffsides above the sparkling sea.

The most convenient ways to access the Cinque Terre are by train, boat, or foot, taking advantage of the well-connected railway network or the scenic hiking trails that connect the towns.

Our adventure kicked off in Monterosso, where we popped into a local café for a quick espresso before setting off on an unforgettable hike led by our knowledgeable guide, Sara.

It’s essential to choose a trail suited to your experience level beforehand, as they vary in difficulty. Plus, some routes are temporarily closed due to a landslide two years ago. Hiking tips – take water, as the route lacked any pit stops save for a serendipitous encounter with a vendor selling freshly picked oranges, and don’t wear flip-flops as they are banned!

After completing a portion of the trail, we took a well-deserved break in the pretty town of Vernazza, for lunch indulging in the delightful flavours of freshly baked focaccia adorned in pesto while basking in the sunshine.

Continuing our journey, we traversed cliff tops, marvelling at the stunning vistas and passing terraces lined with dry stone walls, vineyards, and lemon trees heavy with fruit.

We finally descended to Riomaggiore, where we visited Possa Winery nestled on the hillside. There, we met with winemaker Heydi Bonanini, whose family has farmed the land for 11 generations, with Heydi himself tending to it for the past 29 years. Heydi’s approach is unique – he opts for ancient vines over more commercial varieties, avoiding chemical products to preserve biodiversity and respect for the ecosystem. Alongside the vines on his terraces, he cultivates flowers and herbs and tends to beehives, which, unfortunately, seemed to take a personal dislike to me!

Heydi is enthusiastic about engaging the local community and spearheads projects for migrants, offering training and employment opportunities. Additionally, for local children, he educates them about the land, guiding them in planting their vines. They return each year to witness the growth of their vines, fostering a sense of connection to the earth and the fruits it bears.

Following the tour, we indulged in a wine-tasting session, much appreciated after the bee incident. Heydi’s Cinque Terre wines have a distinct flavour profile, evoking the salty freshness of the earth and proving to be quite delicious.

Just across the bay from Portovenere lies Palmaria Island, the largest of several nearby islands that I had the pleasure of exploring during my adventure. This lovely island offers a blend of natural beauty and historical charm, with rugged cliffs, and lush vegetation. It’s an ideal destination for hikers, I was thrilled to discover ancient fortifications dating back to Roman times and soak in panoramic vistas overlooking the enchanting Gulf of La Spezia. For those seeking relaxation, a leisurely swim or snorkelling in the surrounding crystal-clear waters is an enticing option.

The highlight of my trip was boarding a boat with Associazione per il mare for a tour around the bay, this way you can get a real sense of the scenic coastline and picturesque villages, (you can also visit the oyster farms). Here, we indulged in a luxurious lunch in the sunshine, enjoying delicious homegrown oysters and mussels, followed by fresh pasta, homemade focaccia, and crisp white wine from Cinque Terre—a true taste of heaven!

Portovenere is a discovery in itself; wander its streets and narrow alleyways, with their dusty-coloured houses, and you’ll uncover hidden gems at every turn. Explore ancient churches adorned with centuries-old frescoes, each telling a story of the town’s rich history and cultural heritage. Whether you’re tracing the footsteps of ancient mariners, admiring the iconic Byron’s Grotto, indulging in freshly caught seafood at a seaside trattoria, or simply soaking in its wonderful Mediterranean charm, this beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site is well worth a visit.

Where to stay – Grand Hotel Portovenere – https://www.portoveneregrand.com/