Last Updated on October 30, 2025
A Journey Steeped in Ancient History:
It might be impossible to get bored of visiting the Greek Islands, but for those keen explorers looking for Grecian authenticity, perhaps Rhodes, Crete and Mykonos just aren’t doing it for you. Anyone looking for a more genuine cultural fix must look no further than Epirus. Nestled between the Pindus Mountains and the Ionian Sea, Epirus was the northwest region of Ancient Greece, and is home to a host of cultural and archaeological sites, begging to be explored.
The tour around The Ancient Theatres of Epirus is becoming known as The Cultural Route of the region. It offers a grand tour, if you will, based around the region’s cultural heritage, local businesses, and regional produce, bringing visitors an authentic experience steeped in provincial history. Paired with a host of boutique hotels, the friendliest locals, and the beating Greek sun, it makes for an unforgettable trip. Completely customizable to your own itinerary, you could plan a quiet weekend away, sticking to one or two sites, or opt for an ‘all bets are off’ three-week excursion.
If you love a ruin, this one is for you. If hotels, spas, restaurants and activities are more your thing, not to worry as this is only the first of two parts to our Epirus series. Stay tuned for where to stay, drink, eat and relax, in the next article.
Table of Contents
Dodona/ Dodoni:
“Wouldst thou survive the marble or the oak?
When nations, tongues, and worlds must sink beneath the stroke!”
– Lord Byron on Dodona in Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage: Canto 02
Legend states that two black doves were once released from Thebes, and where they landed, temples were built to honour the god of thunder, Zeus. While one landed in Siwa, Egypt, the other landed in an oak tree in Dodona, now an hour or so’s drive from Ioannina. The tree was protected by priests or priestesses who used the rustling of the leaves and the chirping of the doves to interpret ‘yes’ or ‘no’ answers from Zeus himself.
Dodona was one of the most famous oracles in all of Ancient Greece and has been an inspiration to poets from Homer through to Lord Byron. In terms of prestige, it was only beaten by the Temple of Apollo at Delphi, home to Pythia, the all-knowing high priestess. Dodona was widely considered to be Zeus’s second gaff, his earthly retreat from his home above the clouds on Mount Olympus.
Though worship at the site of Dodona has a history dating back to the Mycenean Era (1750-1050BC), it wasn’t until the 3rd century BC that major construction took place. Ordered by the King of Epirus, Pyrrhus, what is left of Dodona owes much to his deliberation. Today, visitors can tour the site, from the grand walls, around the ancient theatre of Dodona, to the sacred house of Zeus and the Bouleuterion.
The Theatre at Dodona is an absolute must-see. The Cavea (seating area) has been carved into the base of a hill and stretches back to fit 17,000 spectators, making it one of the biggest Hellenistic theatres in Greece. From the top rows, you can see the often snow-capped Mount Tomaros looming over the full archaeological site. Need a ruin fix near Ioannina? This one will sort you right out if you can catch your jaw from dragging along the floor at the stunning views.
Gitana/Gitanae:
Heading towards the coast from Ioannina? Or from Corfu to the mainland? The Theatre of Ancient Gitana definitely deserves a look. Once capital city of the Thesprotians, it was simultaneously destroyed, with over 70 other cities in Epirus, by The Romans in 167 BC, in the Third Macedonian War.
Gitana is surrounded by the river Kalamas, which flows directly into the Ionian Sea, providing excellent fortification against attacks. The theatre was rediscovered in the late 1980s, but intense erosion from Kalamas is partially to blame for its poor shape.
The theatre is located just outside the walls of Gitana, and perches against the foot of the settlement. Its main appeal, however, lies in its engravings. The seats on the right-hand side of the theatre are engraved with the names. Archaeologists aren’t entirely sure why this occurred, but it has been proposed that these are names carved by freed slaves. Sometimes, slaves would carve their own names in stone, others, the family names of their old houses. It has been suggested that this was a way of honouring their liberators. An unusual number of female names have been found at Gitana, far more than at other sites in Greece and Albania with similar engravings.
While Gitana is not as grand as Dodona, it strikes the explorer as belonging to a close community. Standing on the engraved stones, it’s easy to imagine inhabitants stretching their legs after a long day, rejoicing in the Greek sun, laughing with their families and watching the players in the orchestra. There’s a sense that people really lived their lives here. The city was once home to 10,000 people, and only about 5 percent of it has so far been excavated. I, for one, hope they uncover more.
Amvrakia:
Found in the heart of modern-day Arta are the two Ancient Theatres of Amvrakia. While not much is known about the large theatre, which is buried underneath rows of modern houses, corner shops and restaurants, the small theatre has been surprisingly well preserved. It is the smallest theatre ever discovered in Greece. Clearly not intended for anything larger than a fringe performance, it was most likely used for administrative and governmental gatherings.
Like Dodona, the theatres at Amvrakia were commissioned by Pyrrhus of Epirus, when he made Amvrakia the administrative centre for the region. He commissioned the theatres alongside a host of new buildings, that celebrated and embraced his vision of Epirus.
The theatre was discovered in 1976 and is currently still being excavated. We were lucky enough to be given exclusive access to the site, but currently, it is not open to the public. It will be interesting to visit in a few years’ time and experience the full scope of the ruin.
However, if you are in Arta and interested in some sightseeing, The Temple of Apollo is worth stopping for, but the real star of the area is The Church of The Parigoritissa, a 13th-century Byzantine church, home to very impressive mosaics, that showcase Arta’s Byzantine legacy.
Kassope/ Cassope:
Anyone familiar with touring ruins will know the difference between a 30-minute and an all-day site and trust me when I say, you’ll want to carve out a whole day for Kassope.
Curled up on the western slopes of the Zalongo mountains, The Theatre of Kassope looks over the entire city. Constructed in the 3rd century BC, it had a capacity of over 2500 people. Currently, the view from the theatre takes in the ruins of the ancient city, over the cliff, showcasing a sprawling Preveza, right down to the coast of the Ionian Sea.
As well as the spectacular views, the ruins also don’t disappoint. The city’s origins date back to the Palaeolithic era, but the City was founded in the middle of the 4th century BC. It is one of the most well-preserved examples of the Hippodamian plan, a city ordered by grids, in Greece. Other than the theatre, the site’s main attraction is the stunningly well-preserved Katagogeion. Though historians are still arguing over the building’s purpose, it was evidently a public building that may have functioned as either a hostel or marketplace.
Kassope was later abandoned around 30BC after Roman attacks in the 2nd century had ravaged the city. The remaining inhabitants took whatever they could carry, and resettled in nearby Nikopolis.
No promises on this one, but there were tortoises making a home amongst the ruins when we were there!
Nikopolis:
Nikopolis is where the inhabitants of Kassope began to resettle in 29 BC, when Octavian decided to build a city to celebrate his victory, in 31 BC, over Alexander the Great and Cleopatra in the naval battle of Actium. Nikopolis literally means City of Victory and is now one of the largest surviving ancient cities in Greece.
The Theatre at Nikopolis stands out against the other four theatres in Epirus because of its Roman heritage. The brickwork found across the top of the theatre resembles those found across Italy and Sicily, more than it does Grecian theatres. Roman theatres were also often used for gladiatorial combat, as well as being a centre for the arts. Octavian named Apollo the patron god of the area and revived the ancient games that were put on in the god’s honour.
Excavation began on Nikopolis in the 1960s, but the theatre still cannot be fully explored by visitors, though even seeing the outside is worth the effort! However, many of the other attractions around Nikopolis may be visited, including the Actium monument of Augustus, the ruins of the city’ old aqueduct, and the city walls. It is certainly worth the small trip from Preveza to see the beautifully decadent ruins.
So, whether you’re a familiar island trotter or completely new to Greece, the tour of Ancient Theatres in Epirus offers a host of cultural experiences steeped in ancient history. Stay tuned for a piece on where to stay and what to do in Epirus. This one will be a holiday you won’t forget.
London-Unattached is very grateful for the hospitality and kindness of the organisers of the I-Thea Project, for making this trip possible.
Epirus ♥️The unspoilt beauty of Greece. I never tire visiting this region !
Very good Tacita! Thank you! I think it was worth the effort!