Last Updated on October 16, 2023
Suffolk Staycations – Part 2
I spent a lot of time in Suffolk as a child. There were seaside holidays in Southwold, orchestra courses and concerts at Snape Maltings and stays in the historic market town of Sudbury. But in recent years the county has been off my radar, so it has been a pleasure to rediscover the area through our short Suffolk Staycations series. The Brudenell Hotel in Aldeburgh was our second Suffolk spot this year and one I truly loved.
In Suffolk Staycations Part 1 we visited The Crown and Castle in Orford, a gorgeous and historic village on the scenic River Ore. This trip took us to Aldeburgh, a picturesque seaside town with a strong connection to the arts where we stayed at the 44-bedroom Brudenell Hotel. All rooms at the Brudenell have recently been refurbished and either faces the sea or the town, the river Alde and the countryside beyond.
The hotel interior has a distinctly nautical theme. Our room had phenomenal views of the sea; it’s not often you can be lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves in the UK! And if you’re an opera fan like me then you are firmly in Peter Grimes territory, Benjamin Britten’s opera with its famous Four Sea Interludes, set in a fictional version of Aldeburgh.
The room itself (room 100) was huge, tastefully decked out in maritime pastel colours, with contemporary parquet furnishings, feature mirrors, a tea and coffee machine, a couple of flatscreen TVs, a 3-piece suite and a walk-in closet.
And did I mention the view… there is a bay window and a small balcony, perfect for glorious sunrises and sunsets.
The bed was large and comfortable with luxurious fluffy dressing gowns and slippers.
And the bathroom with its blue and green tiles had a good size bath and powerful shower along with TempleSpa toiletries.
We went for dinner in the Brudenell’s Seafood & Grill restaurant which has a ‘focus on sustainably sourced fish and seafood just landed from the sea and fantastic Suffolk produce.’
The restaurant’s interior continued the nautical theme. Colours were aquamarine and there were light wood tables and attractive large cream light fittings with vocal jazz on the stereo adding ambience. With a sizeable beachside outdoor terrace it is perfectly set up for all weathers.
We were drinking a half bottle of Saint-Veran, a well-rounded white Burgundy with green apple and cantaloupe melon notes. Juicy Sicilian Nocarella olives arrived with thin slices of deep-fried sourdough – a nice touch.
Delicious crab arancini starters came hot and crisp from the deep-fryer. They had a great blend of white and brown meat and the dollop of lobster mayonnaise had a light seafood tang. Grilled tiger prawns with chermoula were meaty and buttery with a mild spice.
The catch of the day was a generous fillet of perfectly grilled fresh halibut with herbed crushed new potatoes and samphire.
I’m still dreaming about my Cromer Crab Thermidor, a piping hot Thermidor with a funky mix of crab meat and cheesy topping. Served with properly limp French fries and a well-dressed green salad it was unfussy but perfectly executed.
A glass of the gorgeous raisiny Hidalgo Pedro Ximinez was perfect with our desserts. A huge portion of a luscious, rich French apple tart, with a Calvados caramel and mascarpone ice cream, was the height of over-indulgence! In contrast, an elegant passion fruit and mango slice accompanied by a tropical fruit salad was light and not too sweet. I dream of finding good seaside fish restaurants in the UK – there aren’t enough of them. The Brudenell’s Seafood & Grill is that rare commodity so make sure you book as it gets very busy!
After a great night’s sleep, we were back in the restaurant for breakfast. You can either have the ‘Continental or the Continental & Cooked Breakfast’. All breakfasts include Assam tea and filter coffee and there is a great selection of juice, fruits, cereals and pastries.
There is a range of cooked options from Porridge with honey and brown sugar, to delicious-sounding warm Buttermilk Pancakes with vanilla yoghurt & blueberry compote as well as more substantial choices such as Scottish Smoked Salmon with Scrambled Eggs on granary toast and Eggs Benedict. There is ‘The Suffolk Breakfast’ – a localised full English – but my guest went for The Brudenell’s Vegetarian Breakfast, a tasty combo of eggs, smashed avocado, grilled tomato, flat mushroom and wilted spinach on granary toast – perfect ‘walking by the beach fuel’!
I had the Pinneys of Orford Grilled Smoked Kipper with lemon herb butter. I love a freshly smoked kipper for breakfast by the seaside but it encourages me to start singing shanties at the breakfast table so I have to be careful(!) The restaurant has very well-trained and friendly staff and if you wish to book a private event you can book the Avocet private dining room which holds up to 22 people.
The Brudenell Hotel is fabulously located and is the perfect base for exploring Aldeburgh and the surrounding area. The town is delightful, with characterful cottages and historic buildings like the 16th-century Moot Hall.
As you walk along the beach you will encounter local sculptor Maggi Hambling’s beautiful ‘Scallop’ with its resonant quote from Benjamin Britten’s opera, Peter Grimes – “I hear those voices that will not be drowned”.
Britten’s place of residence, The Red House, is near Aldeburgh and can be visited, as is the Snape Maltings, a beautifully designed complex that includes a concert hall, arty shops, places to eat, artist studios, a nature reserve and a sculpture park with works by Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.
Slightly further afield is the charming town of Woodbridge which sits on the estuary of the River Deben.
Check out ‘The Long Shed’ where they are building a replica in green oak of the long boat found at the nearby National Trust site at the Sutton Hoo Anglo-Saxon royal burial ground, which is in itself a must-see attraction with a fascinating museum, the burial mounds and a viewing tower.
We hope you’ve enjoyed our Suffolk series. Both the Brudenell Hotel and The Crown and Castle in Orford are excellent options for a staycation. We will be doing more regional visits soon so keep an eye out!
The Parade,
Aldeburgh,
Suffolk
IP15 5BU
01728 452071
Prices from around £190 up to £380 B&B per night for two sharing.
