Last Updated on May 29, 2026
Experience Italy with Italy Charme
I’ve long had a love affair with Italy, one that began with a fleeting romance in Venice in my early twenties. Since then, I’ve returned time and again, drawn back by the beauty of the language, its cities, beaches, and countryside, and of course, its food.
This trip took me to Umbria and Marche in central Italy, just inland from the east coast, a quieter, less populated corner of the country that remains refreshingly off the well-trodden tourist trail.
Travelling around Italy is generally easy. The train network is efficient and a pleasure to ride on. There are several airports across the country, so reaching most places is straightforward. Umbria and Marche, however, require a little more planning. The main towns are connected by regional trains, but reaching smaller villages, hilltop towns, and wineries can be tricky without a car, so hiring a car is the easiest option. Alternatively, you can base yourself in a well-connected town and explore from there by train and bus.
I was travelling with a group on an itinerary arranged by Italy Charme, a company specialising in bespoke artisan journeys that uncover lesser-known destinations and offer experiences rooted in history, craft and local stories.
Umbria
Umbria is in central Italy; its capital is Perugia, and it is also known for historic towns such as Terni, Assisi, Gubbio, Orvieto, and Spoleto. It is often called the “green heart of Italy” because of its rolling hills, forests, lakes, and valleys.
Norcia
Our first stop was in Norcia, in the heart of Umbria, on a flat plain known as Santa Scolastica, framed by the Sibillini Mountains of the Apennines. The town is best known as the birthplace of Saint Benedict. It is also home to a rich culinary heritage, particularly its centuries-old artisan-cured meat production and pork butchery, which gave rise to the term “norcineria”.
Norcia is also celebrated for its exceptional local produce, from the prized black truffles (Tartufo Nero Pregiato), the cornerstone of the local cuisine, harvested between November and March, to the lentils grown on the nearby Castelluccio plateau. Norcia’s pretty, pastel-painted streets are lined with small delis, their windows filled with hanging cured meats and shelves of regional specialities, making it almost impossible to leave empty-handed.
However, Norcia is still recovering from the 2016 earthquake that devastated the region. The seismic shocks caused widespread destruction across the town, most notably the collapse of the iconic 13th-century Basilica of Saint Benedict, leaving only its façade standing. When I visited, much of Norcia was still being carefully rebuilt, though there was a real sense of pride as the town steadily neared completion.
Palazzo Seneca, Norcia
Norcia makes an ideal base for exploring the surrounding countryside and is a lovely town in its own right. We stayed at Palazzo Seneca, right in the centre, which also stands as a remarkable story of resilience in the aftermath of the earthquake.
Originally a 16th-century Umbrian palace built by the Seneca family from nearby Piedivalle, renowned for their skilled wood carving, it has been carefully restored into a luxurious boutique hotel. Today, it is run with genuine warmth by the Bianconi family, who have been part of the local hospitality scene since 1850.
A strong sense of heritage runs throughout, and it is stylishly designed by architect Andrew Lerwill Bowen in close collaboration with the family. Thick stone walls are filled with elegantly crafted leather and wood furnishings, a cavernous fireplace, and deep sofas, and are hung with striking contemporary artwork.
The hotel has around 24 rooms, each individually styled with a blend of antique and modern pieces. Cast-iron beds and four-poster beds dressed in crisp linen make it an especially comfortable place to return to at the end of the day.
I happened to be celebrating my birthday on the day we arrived, and I was treated to a full-body massage in the spa, set within underground vaults reached by stone steps. Lit by candles, it was one of the most soothing treatments I’ve experienced. There’s also a sauna and Turkish bath.
My massage was followed by a faultless ten-course meal at the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, Vespasia, which focuses on local ingredients and sustainability; it’s undoubtedly one of Norcia’s standout draws. The food was exceptional, served in a refined dining room that perfectly matched the quality of the cooking. Birthdays don’t get much better than this.
If you’re looking to discover a quieter side of Italy, Norcia, with its mountain scenery, historic buildings, and its Umbrian food, might be the place I would return to without hesitation.
Agroturismo Zafferano e Dintorni
We visited Agroturismo Zafferano e Dintorni, a small, working rural farm in the Valerian region of Umbria, between Terni and Norcia, with Spoleto very nearby. It’s set in a scenic valley by the Nera River, with gorgeous, uninterrupted views of green meadows, apple orchards, and the hillsides beyond.
This family-run farm offers overnight stays in either their studio or one of the guest rooms, in the rustic farmhouse, or in a camper spot or a tent pitch.
They offer educational farm activities, and for those wanting to take to the hills, it’s the perfect spot for sports enthusiasts, whether that be hiking or biking. They rent e-bikes and mountain bikes, or you can go on a guided excursion.
But perhaps their most prized experience is to discover all about Cascia saffron. We spent the morning with Marta, taking a walk through the local fields, learning about how this precious herb is cultivated – flower by flower, gram by gram (and yes, it really is the most expensive herb in the world). We also foraged for wild herbs, fennel, mint, and elderflower, and marvelled at Marta’s beautiful-looking artichokes.
Afterwards, we returned to the farm, made our own saffron flower pouches, and sat down to a sociable farm-to-table lunch celebrating everything grown around us.
Think freshly made bread, cheeses, dandelion honey, and pickled artichokes in olive oil. Potato and cicerchie bean croquettes with nettles and garlic pesto crostini, fabulous carbonara with fresh herbs, a wild herb salad, and a simple cake layered with elderflower jam, served with local wine. What a special way to spend a day.
Le Marche
Marche is a central Italian region which stretches from the Apennines down to the Adriatic coast, east of Umbria. It has a patchwork of coastal towns, such as Ancona (its capital) and Pesaro, and historic hill settlements, such as Urbino and Ascoli Piceno, set in the Apennine foothills. It’s a quieter, less touristy part of Italy than the better-known parts.
Castel do Luco
Castel di Luco is a boutique hotel in Marche with a difference. This fantastic medieval fortress has belonged to the Amici family since the 1400s and remains in the family. It’s considered one of the best-preserved medieval structures in the Piceno region.
It suffered terrible damage during the 2016 Norcia earthquake and has since undergone a painstaking restoration. Today, Castel di Luco cleverly balances its palpable sense of history with modern comforts. It is run with warmth by siblings Francesco and Laura Amici, who are justifiably proud of their family heritage.
On the way to the castle, we saw this vast circular fortress standing grandly on the hill. On arrival, we walked up a steep stone path to the entrance, where the castle’s resident wall-climbing goat provided a friendly welcome.
Francesco met us in the castle’s stone-cobbled courtyard, where we were introduced to the family’s remarkable legacy, dating back centuries. Complete with a former jail, open fireplaces and a historic wine cellar, the castle’s walls are lined with portraits of the Amici family dating back to the 1400s. Soft pastel-coloured frescoes and heavy wooden doors with iron fittings preserve its character and extraordinary sense of history.
The rooms have been thoughtfully restored, embracing a kind of medieval minimalism. Stone walls, simple lines, and carefully chosen furnishings allow the architecture to take centre stage, while still offering comfort and calm. My room had a wonderful fresco on the ceiling, which I could gaze at from my bed. The windows frame the surrounding countryside, with lovely views of the hills, woodland, and the small hamlet below, enhancing the sense of retreat.
Dining is equally atmospheric; it’s quite an experience eating at the castle table in intimate, immaculately frescoed rooms. It feels more like a private gathering than a formal restaurant. We dined on delicious local dishes, served on personalised stoneware, prepared with care by Laura, rooted in tradition and the rhythms of the region.
I have never stayed in a castle before now, but I suspect in years gone by you’d never have received this left of luxury and comfort. Here in the care of the Amici family, you rest assured you’ll be well looked after.
Truffle Hunting at Agroturismo Ramusè
I’ve always dreamed of going truffle hunting in Italy, so I was really excited about our visit to . The area is known for its black truffles, which are in season from May to September. This renovated farmhouse is set on a quiet hill in Force, in the Marche region, just 30 minutes from the Adriatic Sea and the Sibillini National Park, and is run by Paulo in what was once his grandparents’ home.
With just six rooms, including a 2-bedroom suite, and a small swimming pool, this rustic agriturismo is the perfect place for those seeking tranquillity and a taste of rural Italian life.
Paolo used to have a stall in Borough Market selling truffles and supplying some of London’s best restaurants. Now you can join him in rural Italy, experiencing the joy of truffle hunting, surrounded by glorious countryside and dining in a trattoria style on local dishes.
We spent the day with Paolo and his gorgeous dogs, Briciola, Elektra and Ghianda, searching for black truffles. It had been raining heavily before we arrived, but fortunately, the skies cleared, and off we went. Paulo’s dogs have been highly trained to sniff out these prized fungi, which grow under the roots of certain trees.
If the truffles are ripe, they make an odour, and when the dogs catch the scent, Paulo uses a small tool to dig out the truffle without damaging the soil. I found the experience quite exhilarating, and we were remarkably successful on our hunt, returning to the farmhouse with handfuls of truffles.
After the thrill of the hunt, it was time for a hearty lunch around the warmth of the farmhouse table. But before we tucked in, Paolo’s aunt, Anna, gave us a demonstration on how to make tagliatelle pasta from scratch. She explained that it had to be made quite quickly so the pasta wouldn’t dry out. She made it look simpler than it is, but it required effort.
Lunch was prepared by Anna in the kitchen, starting with a plate of crostini with white asparagus and shavings of black truffle, of course, artichokes, salami and Luna Gialla cheese, which means yellow moon in Italian and a local speciality called Olive all’ascolana – a tasty snack of olives stuffed with pork and deep fried. Followed by Tagliatelle- fungi and truffles, washed down with some Italian vino – what could be more pleasurable!
Ascoli Piceno
If you’re visiting the Marche region, a trip to its elegant capital, Ascoli Piceno, is a must. Dating back to the ancient Piceni people, before becoming an important Roman town, the city is known as the “City of Travertine” for the pale local stone used to build many of its beautiful façades and buildings.
This attractive university city is filled with boutiques, cafés and layers of history, with plenty to explore, from medieval towers and Renaissance public buildings to ornate churches and Roman remains.
In the centre of Ascoli is the magnificent Piazza del Popolo, a grand square framed by elegant palaces, historic cafés and the town’s clock tower. Elsewhere, you’ll find landmarks such as the ancient Ponte di Cecco bridge and the remains of a Roman theatre. Meanwhile, Piazza Arringo forms the city’s religious heart, home to the cathedral, baptistery and diocesan buildings.
On the day of our visit, the rain poured relentlessly, giving us the perfect excuse to take shelter at the historic Caffè Meletti on Piazza del Popolo. Opened in 1907, this charming classic Italian café quickly became a social and cultural meeting place for locals, and it remains so today. A rare example of Art Nouveau architecture in the Marche region, it is filled with decorative details that have remained largely untouched, giving it an elegant sense of stepping back in time. Overlooking the piazza, it serves coffee, aperitifs and traditional dishes throughout the day.
The café takes its name from Silvio Meletti, the liqueur entrepreneur behind Anisetta Meletti, which is still served here today. I can highly recommend trying a Meletti Spritz while watching the world go by on the square.
We dined at Castel di Luco for one last time. The next morning, bags packed, I reluctantly left Marche and the breathtaking Italian countryside to return to the more hectic pace of my London life.
It isn’t always easy to plan your own itinerary and travel arrangements without sticking to the well-trodden routes. So, for those seeking a sense of calm and discovery in some of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Italy Charme offers a fantastic opportunity to embark on tailor-made journeys packed with things you really want to do and see, creating authentic experiences filled with timeless Italian charm.
Palazzo Seneca, Via Cesare Battisti, 10, 06046 Norcia PG, Italy
Phone: +39 0743 817434
Agroturismo Zafferano e Dintorni, Via Sant’Anatolia, 2, 06040 Castel San Felice PG, Italy
Phone: +39 349 524 5022
Castel do Luco, 63095 Luco, Province of Ascoli Piceno, Italy
Phone: +39 338 213 2286
Truffle Hunting at Agroturismo Ramusè, Contrada Lupo – Località Casette,3, 63086 Force AP
Phone: +393286291859
Caffè Meletti , Piazza del Popolo, 56, 63100 Ascoli Piceno AP, Italy
Phone: +39 0736 255559
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