Last Updated on October 4, 2024
A peaceful oasis in the hills above Florence
Leaving the madding crowd behind in Florence, our taxi glided up the serpentine road to the northeast of the city, up into the hills of Fiesole. A mere 6 miles from Florence, this little town feels like a world away with its villas and beautiful gardens. The views over the city below are spectacular. The air is clean and the temperature is cooler. That is why the Medici and other powerful Florentine families built summer residences in these hills and still today, locals and visitors alike flock here for respite. Having spent a few intense days of sightseeing in Florence, we were ready for a break. A night at FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole was an oasis of calm with outstanding dining.
FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole is set high up on the hillside a few minutes’ walk from the town itself. The property is shaded by tall pine and cedar trees and looks out over Florence, the Duomo in clear sight. It is but two years since the hotel came under the FH55 brand and there are two other hotels in central Florence should you wish to mix and match with a city and hillside visit. If you prefer to stay outside the city centre, FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole makes a convenient base as taxis are readily available via reception and there is also the number 7 bus into town that stops outside the hotel. So you could do day trips into the city and escape into the countryside in the evening. I was curious about the name FH55 and discovered that it means Finally Home and the year, 1955, in which the brand was established to provide accommodation of excellence in two cities of art, Florence and Rome.
The rooms at FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole are located across three buildings. The largest is a charming, green shuttered nineteenth century villa, typical of the large, Tuscan homes one sees all the way up the hill from Florence. A second building houses a few garden rooms with small private terraces with comfy outdoor furniture. These open directly onto a wide communal terrace, overlooking the city far below. The third section of rooms is located in the main building of the hotel and contains 10 deluxe rooms, overlooking the swimming pool. These have private terraces too. This part of the hotel, which includes the restaurant and reception, was once a lemonaia, a lemon grove that grows inside an ingenious greenhouse structure which protects the trees in the winter. It was used by the monks in the nearby monastery.
Having been shown to our garden room, I relaxed on a stylish outdoor sofa protected from the sun with a huge patio umbrella. Although this area is communal, it is so capacious that one feels very private, the space broken up into several seating areas. There is greenery everywhere in this lovely Italian-style garden. I was immediately regretful to be staying only one night as this was a wonderful environment in which to unwind properly and have a rest.
Our garden room was cosy with a very comfortable bed, desk, armchair and side table on which was a welcome glass pitcher of cold juice and a plate of artfully presented fruit. A flagstone floor and soft furnishings in white and chartreuse were both classic and elegant. There was lovely attention to detail with a floral theme throughout the room from the stencilled leaves on the walls to the light sconces, framed prints and mirror frames. The bathroom was classic in style with a bath – unusual in hotels I find – and a shower over the bath. If you have mobility problems you may want to request a room with a walk-in shower. Robes and really fluffy slippers added an extra luxurious touch. The staff could not have been more warm and welcoming and we immediately felt at ease.
To complete the relaxed ambience of the FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole, the hotel has a swimming pool. This is no small delight when the Tuscan sun is high and hot. From the pool deck, one can gaze over the city. There is even a stone tower overlooking the pool that adds extra Tuscan character to the scene. I had intended to spend the afternoon sightseeing in Fiesole, or at least to read my book, but I ended up dozing off on one of the chaises longues around the pool. The garden path leading to the pool is a well-tended, shaded walk amongst Mediterranean plants with butterflies darting about. I slowed my pace and imagined myself as a Renaissance woman, taking my afternoon stroll, perhaps dining in the evening at the Villa Medici.
The Serrae restaurant at FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole is headed up by stellar chef, Antonello Sardi, who was busy with dinner prep when I popped in and he took the time to chat and introduce me to his chefs in the open-plan kitchen. Fine dining in the evenings is absolutely not to be missed and I will be reviewing the meal we ate there soon. The restaurant itself is classic in style with cream napery and overlooks the magnificent view. Serrae is selected in the 2024 Michelin Guide and it surely cannot be long before it is awarded a star, Sardi having already garnered Michelin stars at two previous locations.
Around 7 pm, the sun hanging low in the sky, guests gathered on the large terrace for sundowners. Far below the city basked in the early evening light. It would be wonderful to host a special celebration here, booking out all 32 rooms for a house party. Of course, the hotel caters for just such events and a wedding here must be a splendid affair.
After a good night’s sleep, we woke for breakfast which was served in the restaurant alongside the open-plan kitchen. A good buffet was laid out and included homemade cakes, pastries and focaccia. Fresh eggs from the local hills were available along with smoked salmon, charcuterie, cheese, fruit and salad ingredients. Eating breakfast overlooking Florence and its hills in the distance was quite an experience to wake up for. The sun streamed into the breakfast room, and soft jazz played in the background. I had a bird’s eye view of the Duomo from my chair.
Having a few hours to spare before checkout, I debated whether to return to the pool or to walk up the hill to Fiesole. I am pleased I chose the latter because I found a charming town with Etruscan ruins and a small museum as well as the Romanesque Fiesole Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Romulus. There were plenty of restaurants and bars to choose from and lots of walks in the area that one could explore if time permits.
Checking out of some hotels is more difficult than others and on this occasion, I was particularly reluctant. Book yourself at least two nights at FH55 Hotel Villa Fiesole. This elegant and romantic hotel with a warm welcome and excellent cuisine will refresh and restore your peace of mind.
Via Frà Giovanni de Fiesole
Detto l’Angelico, 35,
50014 Fiesole,
Tuscany,
Italy
