Last Updated on February 16, 2026

Lucerne: lights, chocolate, mountains, dragons and a lake

Lucerne, a picturesque city in central Switzerland, surrounded by mountains, is an ideal destination for a short city break or longer holiday. This compact city is easy to get around on foot for a sightseeing trip. If you are thinking of a tour of Switzerland, Lucerne should be part of your itinerary.

Lilu Light Festival

The city of Lucerne is illuminated by light installations during the Lilu light festival, which runs annually toward the end of January. Artists from around the world create spectacular installations that illuminate the landmarks and streets of this beautiful lakeside city. During one of the darkest times of the year, the light festival draws people into the streets for an unforgettable experience. 

A visit to Lucerne during the light festival will not disappoint. We visited during the 2026 light festival, the seventh year it has been organised, with a guided tour in the city centre. 

Some installations are interactive, drawing you into the process and adding a fun element to the evening.

Aside from the Jesuit Church display, which charges an entry fee, this is a free festival.

Chateau Gütsch

Set high on the hill above the city, the historic Chateau Gütsch Hotel stands. This is worth a visit for the view alone. Queen Victoria secretly stayed here for three weeks after the death of her husband, Albert, to mourn and find solace. 

Take time out with a hot drink and a sweet treat in the restaurant at Chateau Gütsch whilst you admire the panoramic view of the city below and the gleaming lake.

A steep funicular swiftly takes you up to the Chateau Gütsch. Access to the funicular is free with the Lucerne City Pass or Swiss Pass.

Try the Lucerne speciality – Chügelipastete

The local speciality of Lucerne, Chügelpastete, is something you should try. This is similar to a vol au vent on a much grander scale. A puff pastry case is filled with creamy veal balls in a mushroom sauce, traditionally served with raisins soaked in cognac. It is a delicious, filling dish; for vegetarians, meat can be replaced with a vegetable filling.

Chocolate-making workshop

The Swiss are renowned worldwide for producing exquisite, high-quality chocolate. You can experience, first hand, a chocolate-making workshop at the artisan chocolate maker Max Chocolatier.

Learn about the origins of the chocolate used, make your own personalised chocolate bar, and visit the production room to see staff creating chocolates. This is a fantastic event and can be booked for groups or individuals.

Max Chocolatier are a small producer of top-quality chocolate. The attention to detail in the Easter eggs on display at our workshop was impressive.

A boat trip on Lake Lucerne

Lake Lucerne forms a dramatic backdrop to the city, and a boat trip on the lake is a must. The view of the city from the water is beautiful, and a lunch cruise is a leisurely way to enjoy the sights whilst sampling tasty food.

 

We joined the boat for a lunch cruise on a misty morning; towards the end of the trip, the sun broke through the gloom, rewarding us with gorgeous views of the buildings lining the edge of the lake.

Lucerne Guided City Tour

Learn the city’s history on an official guided tour. Your guide will take you on a walk through the old town. Highlights include the Water Tower, an octagonal brick tower dating from around 1300, originally part of the city’s defences, which has also been used as a prison and torture chamber.

Chapel Bridge is probably Lucerne’s most photographed landmark, this covered wooden bridge, constructed in 1332, zigzags across the river Reuss. Partly destroyed by a fire, it still bears the marks of the flames. The magnificent Baroque Jesuit Church was built in 1666, inspired by the Church of the Gesù in Rome. 

Mount Pilatus

Mount Pilatus, at an elevation of over 2,000 metres, offers breathtaking panoramic views of Lucerne and Lake Lucerne. Its ancient name was Fractus Mons, “broken mountain”; it later became Mount Pilatus, as the ghost of the Roman Pontius Pilate is said to haunt the mountain.

Local legends from the Middle Ages tell that Mount Pilatus was home to fire-breathing dragons, who inspired terror in the local inhabitants. It was forbidden to climb the mountains. Nowadays, the Dragon cableway and Dragon Path refer to these tales of old.

Mount Pilatus is easily accessible by bus if you are staying in the centre of Lucerne. The summit can be reached via a two-stage gondola to the Fräkmüntegg plateau, followed by the Dragon cable car.

In winter, you can go on a winter walk, snowshoe walk or try sledging from Fräkmüntegg. A cosy, welcoming restaurant is ideal for a warming hot chocolate, coffee, or a more substantial meal. 

For an ultimate experience, consider treating yourself to the champagne basket on the gondola. There can’t be a better way to slowly ascend to the plateau.

During the summer months, you can reach the summit of Pilatus by train, on the world’s steepest cogwheel train.

Breathe with Pilatus

Running from 16 January 2026 to 26 April 2026, Breathe with Pilatus by the Swiss artist Annabelle Schneider is an extraordinary immersive installation. Lie down, close your eyes and drift away into your own thoughts. Akin to being in a cloud, the sounds of the wind and surrounding music relax and cocoon you. 

I found Breathe with Pilatus extremely calming and envisaged myself on the back of a soaring dragon with the wind rustling through its wings. 

Pilatus Kulm restaurant

Located at the Pilatus Kulm Hotel, this restaurant serves tasty dishes with an enviable view over the mountain.

You can choose from a delicious cheese fondue, a selection of cheeses and cold meats or a traditional pan-fried veal Schnitzel in a creamy mushroom sauce with crispy spaetzle. The food is excellent, the service is friendly and efficient. 

Swiss National Museum of Transport– Verkehrshaus

Visit the Swiss National Museum of Transport, Verkehrshaus, Switzerland’s most visited museum, for a fascinating exhibition of transport methods and energy. Large display rooms contain models, trains, and cars.

The section on trains will astound you, as well as authentic old train carriages. There is a small, highly detailed model of the Gotthard Bahn, complete with miniature trains, tunnels, and stations – ideal for train enthusiasts. A full-size Swiss Air aeroplane is parked in a space between two of the exhibition rooms. 

We had a short, guided tour of the highlights of the major spaces. This is somewhere you could spend a day. I would love to revisit, given more time.

With the Swiss Travel Pass, admission to Verkehrshaus is discounted.

Sauna Boat on Lake Lucerne

For a unique experience on Lake Lucerne, why not take time out on the Sauna Boat? Suitable for up to six people, this self-driven boat is ideal for small groups. Drop the anchor in a quiet spot on the lake and take time out to relax in the sauna. You can then choose to take a dip in the lake to cool down.

The Sauna Boat is available to book all year round. 

Where to stay in Lucerne

The Wilden Mann Hotel, situated in Lucerne’s old town, is centrally located, close to the train station, and is an ideal base for a sightseeing holiday.

This historic hotel, five hundred years old, is full of character with spacious rooms, friendly staff and a choice of two restaurants, the Sauvage and the Burgerstube, serving local specialities.

Where to eat in Lucerne

One of the two restaurants within the Wilden Mann Hotel, the Sauvage restaurant in the historic old town, serves excellent food in a welcoming setting. 

For a slightly bizarre and amusing dinner, why not eat at Le Petit Chef, a 3D dining experience in the Ameron Hotel? Be entertained by the world’s smallest chef whilst you enjoy a leisurely dinner. This is a timed experience when all diners are seated.

A restaurant in the heart of the old town, on the bank of the river Reuss, Mill’Feuille is a delightful spot for people watching whilst enjoying an excellent meal.

Lucerne should be on your list of places to visit for a city break; there are lots of things to do and see in this beautiful historic Swiss city framed by the Alps.

I was hosted by Switzerland Tourism and Visit Luzern, with flights from London Heathrow to Zurich Airport, staying at the Wilden Mann Hotel in Lucerne.

Factbox

For details on boat trips on Lake Lucerne.

To book a Lucerne guided city tour.

For more information on Mount Pilatus.

To visit the Swiss Museum of Transport.

Check out the Sauna Boat to make a booking.

Lucerne is easy to reach from Zurich, with frequent trains from the airport station. A direct train takes just over an hour.

Switzerland Tourism

For more information on Lucerne and Switzerland, visit luzern.com | switzerland.com

Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS)

SWISS connects Switzerland with the world, offering more than 100 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Zurich. One-way fares start from £76 and include all taxes, fees and surcharges, one piece of checked luggage weighing up to 23kg and one piece of hand luggage. swiss.com

Travel Switzerland

Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers international visitors to Switzerland unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from €268 for a three-day second-class ticket. swisstravelpass.com.

Looking for more things to do in Switzerland? Read all about our experience with the Swiss Travel Pass, a unique ticket to travel freedom across the country.

Or, perhaps consider a trip to Geneva to complement your Lucerne City Break